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Table of Contents Essential Tree and Shrub Care Soil Prep and Border Refresh Best Trees and Shrubs for January Planting Managing Garden Maintenance January Gardening Round-Up FAQs January marks the start of a fresh gardening year. Although the days are short and much of the UK remains cold and still, this month offers more opportunities than many expect. Trees and shrubs are fully dormant, creating ideal conditions for winter planting, soil improvement, and essential maintenance. With bare-root season at its peak and cool, consistent moisture in the soil, young trees and hedging can establish strong root systems long before spring arrives. Beneath the surface, roots continue to grow whenever temperatures allow, making winter one of the most effective times to plant. The quieter pace also gives gardeners space to refresh borders, support newly planted specimens, and prepare their outdoor spaces for the months ahead. Whether you're adding structure, improving soil health, or protecting young plants from winter weather, these January gardening tips UK  will help you make the most of this often-underrated month. Essential January Tree and Shrub Care January is a pivotal month for caring for ornamental trees , shrubs , and hedging . With plants fully dormant, roots can develop quietly beneath the surface whenever soil temperatures rise above freezing. This makes winter an exceptional time for planting, watering, and stabilising young specimens. Winter Moisture Management Even though the weather is cold, many areas of the UK experience surprisingly dry spells in January, especially in sheltered or free-draining sites. Check moisture levels around newly planted trees and hedging; if the ground feels dry a few centimetres down, give a slow, deep drink on a frost-free day. This is especially important for evergreens such as Cherry Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) , Holly (Ilex aquifolium) , and Photinia ‘Red Robin’ (Photinia × fraseri ‘Red Robin’) , which continue transpiring through winter and benefit from occasional watering to prevent leaf scorch. Mulching for Stability and Root Protection A fresh layer of mulch placed around the base of trees and shrubs helps regulate soil temperature, reduces frost heave, and protects young root systems from fluctuating weather. Organic mulches like compost, bark fines, or leaf mould add long-term soil benefits as they break down. Keep mulch slightly away from stems to prevent damp-related problems. To learn more about choosing and applying mulch , the RHS offers an excellent winter mulching guide. Check Stakes and Supports After Storms Winter storms can loosen tree stakes or cause ties to rub against bark. Walk through your garden after windy weather and ensure stakes remain firm and upright. Loosen any ties that have become tight, and replace damaged supports promptly. A well-staked tree can withstand the heaviest January gales. Monitor Evergreen Stress Strong winds and harsh frosts can take a toll on evergreen shrubs and hedging . Watch for signs of leaf scorch, windburn, or desiccation. Temporary windbreak netting can offer protection in particularly exposed gardens, allowing evergreens to recover more easily. Expert Insight: Roots continue growing whenever the soil is above 5°C — even in midwinter — meaning trees planted in January often establish more quickly than those planted in spring. Soil Prep and Border Refresh Winter soil work is one of the most valuable ways to improve long-term garden health. January’s dormant conditions make it the perfect moment to boost soil structure without disturbing active roots. Clear Borders and Remove Weeds With herbaceous growth gone and borders more visible, now is the ideal time to remove persistent perennial weeds and clear any remaining debris. Healthy leaves can be added to compost heaps, while diseased material should be removed entirely. Tidying borders in January reduces overwintering pests and fungal spores. Add Organic Matter Without Digging Spread a generous layer of compost, well-rotted manure, or leaf mould across beds and around the base of trees and shrubs. There is no need to dig it in — winter rains and natural freeze–thaw cycles draw nutrients down into the soil. This process improves drainage, boosts structure, and prepares the garden for spring planting. Improve Drainage in Waterlogged Areas If certain borders remain saturated in winter, consider incorporating grit or additional organic matter to improve drainage. Raised beds or small grading adjustments can also help redirect excess water, protecting root systems from cold, stagnant conditions. The National Trust also shares useful winter gardening advice for keeping borders healthy and preparing soil for the coming season. Quick Fact: Walking on wet or frozen soil compresses air pockets, leading to compaction that slows root development — use boards to spread weight if access is unavoidable. What to Plant This Month January is one of the best months of the year for establishing bare-root trees, shrubs, and hedging , thanks to cool, moist soil and dormant root systems. Whether you’re planting for structure, colour, or wildlife, winter planting gives young trees an early advantage. Below are six excellent trees to plant in January UK , each offering long-term resilience and seasonal value. Rowan – Wildlife-Friendly Structure Sorbus aucuparia is a superb tree for winter and early spring planting. Its lightweight canopy, clusters of bright berries, and exceptional cold tolerance make it ideal for exposed sites. The berries feed birds through winter, while the tree’s slender shape suits gardens of any size. Bare-root specimens establish quickly during January’s cool, moist conditions Crab Apple – Decorative Blossom & Fruit Malus ‘Evereste’ is a favourite for ornamental gardens; it brings spring blossom, autumn fruit, and year-round appeal. Its persistent crab apples last well into winter, supporting wildlife when food is scarce. Winter planting allows the root system to settle before its early flowering season. Perfect for pollinator-friendly gardens and borders. Birch – Winter Light & Movement Betula pendula adds structure and elegance to winter landscapes with its pale bark and delicate branching. Highly tolerant of cold, it performs exceptionally well when planted bare-root in January. As it matures, it enhances garden biodiversity and offers an airy canopy that doesn’t overpower smaller spaces. Hazel – Productive and Wildlife-Rich Corylus avellana is ideal for hedging, coppicing, and wildlife-friendly planting. Its catkins appear in late winter, offering early pollen for bees. Planted in January, Hazel establishes quickly and responds well to coppicing in later years, making it a versatile addition to naturalistic gardens. Alder – Resilient Structure & Early Interest Alnus glutinosa  is a hardy, adaptable tree that establishes well when planted bare-root in winter. Its upright form, dark bark, and early catkins add subtle interest through the colder months, while its strong tolerance for wet or poor soils makes it ideal for challenging sites. Planted in January, Alder settles quickly and provides reliable structure and wildlife value as it matures. Hawthorn – Hardy Native Hedging Crataegus monogyna is one of a few hedging species that establish as well as Hawthorn when planted bare-root in winter. A tough, fast-growing native hedge plant, it provides nectar-rich flowers in spring, dense summer foliage, and berries in autumn. January planting ensures rapid establishment and strong early growth. Planting for Lasting Impact Planting in January isn’t just about filling gaps — it’s about building the long-term structure and resilience of your outdoor space. Bare-root trees thrive in the cool, moist conditions of midwinter, sending out strong roots while still dormant. By planting now, your new trees will be well established before spring arrives, ready to withstand summer heat, dry spells, and winter winds in the years ahead. Whether you're creating a focal point, strengthening a boundary, or adding wildlife-friendly species, January offers one of the best windows of the year for planting. Many trees planted now — from Whitebeam (Sorbus aria ‘Lutescens’) to Field Maple (Acer campestre) — will reward you with blossom, foliage, and seasonal interest as the year progresses, while developing the long-lasting structure that defines a thriving garden. For further guidance on winter tree planting and establishment, the Tree Council offers clear advice for gardeners at every level. Compact Options for Smaller Gardens If you're working with limited space, smaller trees and shrubs planted in January can still bring strong structure and seasonal interest without overwhelming your outdoor area. Chinese Dogwood (Cornus kousa ‘Chinensis’) is a superb compact choice, offering spring blossom and autumn fruit on a tidy crown. Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum ‘Ariadne’) also works beautifully in small gardens, adding winter catkins and supporting wildlife through the year. For elegant form, Tatarian Maple (Acer ginnala ‘Merlot Magic’®) provides light movement and slender branching that brightens even the darkest winter days. Planting now gives these compact species time to settle before growth begins in spring, ensuring a strong, healthy start to the year ahead. Top Tip: Move vulnerable containers close to the house where they benefit from radiated warmth and shelter from direct wind. Managing Garden Maintenance January’s maintenance tasks focus on protection, structure, and preparing the garden for the growing months ahead. While growth is slow, this is an excellent moment to address potential issues before spring arrives. Light Pruning and Structural Work Now is an excellent time for assessing the shape of ornamental and fruit trees alike, as their bare branches make structural pruning much easier. Light formative pruning on young ornamental trees — such as removing rubbing, crossing, or damaged branches — helps create a balanced framework before spring growth begins. Apples and pears can also be pruned now to maintain an open structure and encourage healthy fruiting. Avoid pruning any stone fruit, including ornamental cherries and plums , as these are best left until summer to prevent silver leaf disease. Deciduous hedges can be tidied lightly at this time of year, while major renovation pruning is best saved for late winter. Firm in Young Plants and Hedging Winter’s freeze–thaw cycles can loosen the soil around newly planted trees, shrubs, and hedging whips, occasionally lifting them slightly from the ground. After cold spells, walk along borders and hedge lines and gently press the soil back around their base. This simple task — often called “firming in” — ensures the roots stay in close contact with the soil, preventing wind rock and helping young plants establish securely before spring. Clear Debris to Reduce Disease Clearing away fallen leaves and old plant material at this time of year helps reduce the spread of fungal diseases. Pay particular attention to roses, fruit trees , and other plants prone to blackspot, rust, or mildew, as debris can harbour spores over winter. Keeping borders, lawns, and the base of trees tidy now prevents problems later and encourages healthier growth when the weather begins to warm. Frost and Snow Protection Cold snaps and snowfall can place extra stress on young or sensitive plants. Brush heavy snow from conifers, hedging, and multi-stem shrubs to prevent branches from splaying or snapping under the weight. A layer of mulch helps insulate the root zone and reduces frost heave, while horticultural fleece offers quick protection during sudden or prolonged frosts. Greenhouse & Shed Maintenance Mild winter days offer an opportunity to ventilate the greenhouse, reducing humidity and wiping away condensation that can encourage mould. Removing dead foliage and spent material keeps the space healthy for overwintering plants. It’s also a useful moment to sharpen tools , organise pots and supports, and check heaters or insulation, helping everything run smoothly when spring activity begins. Gardeners’ World has a useful winter greenhouse checklist for maintaining airflow, hygiene, and equipment. Expert Insight: A clean, well-ventilated greenhouse in January dramatically reduces grey mould and fungal issues during late winter propagation. January Garden Round-Up January may look quiet on the surface, but it’s one of the most influential months for setting your garden up for success. Bare-root planting is at its peak, offering the best opportunity to add new hedging, feature trees , or wildlife-friendly species. Soil improvement, clearing borders, and maintaining supports help create a healthy foundation for spring growth. Protective tasks such as mulching, checking stakes , clearing snow, and supporting containers ensure your garden weathers winter safely. Meanwhile, pruning apples and pears, preparing tools , and refining your planting plans make the most of the slower pace of the season. By completing these essential January gardening tips UK , you'll enter spring with stronger plants, healthier soil, and a garden ready to burst into life. FAQs What trees can I plant in January in the UK? January is an excellent month for planting bare-root trees, as cool, moist soil helps roots establish quickly. Hardy species such as Rowan (Sorbus aucuparia), Silver Birch (Betula pendula), Crab Apple (Malus ‘Evereste’), Alder (Alnus glutinosa), and Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) all transplant well at this time of year. Plant while the ground is workable and not frozen. Is January too late to plant hedging? Not at all — it’s one of the best times. Bare-root hedging varieties such as Hawthorn, Hazel, Blackthorn, and mixed native hedging establish strongly in January’s cool conditions. Plant as long as the soil isn’t frozen or waterlogged, and firm in any whips that lift during cold spells. Can I prune trees in January? You can prune apples and pears now, as winter makes their structure easy to see. Light formative pruning on young ornamental trees is also suitable. Avoid pruning any Prunus species, including ornamental cherries and plums, until summer to prevent silver leaf disease. How do I protect my plants from frost? Apply mulch to insulate roots, keep horticultural fleece handy for sudden temperature drops, and wrap vulnerable pots to reduce freezing. Brush heavy snow from conifers, hedging, and multi-stem shrubs to prevent branches from bending or snapping. Should I water my garden in winter? Water only during frost-free spells and mainly for newly planted trees, hedging, and evergreens. These plants can dry out even in winter winds. Avoid watering when the soil is frozen to prevent root damage. What greenhouse jobs can I do in January? Ventilate the greenhouse on mild days to reduce humidity, clear away dead foliage, check heaters and insulation, and wipe down glass to limit condensation. It’s also a good time to clean pots, sharpen tools, and prepare for early spring sowing.

If you’re planning to plant a new hedge (BN11) or fill gaps in an existing hedge (BN7), the good news is that the Countryside Stewardship application is much simpler than it looks. You don’t need to wade through pages of DEFRA guidance — this step-by-step guide takes you through the exact process farmers need to follow for the 2026 Capital Grants round. 1. Confirm Your Hedge Plan Before you start your application, make sure you’ve already: ✔ Checked you’re eligible ✔ Decided whether it’s BN11 (new hedge) or BN7 (gapping-up) ✔ Measured the hedge length in metres ✔ Walked the line to check access, slopes, gateways and livestock issues This will make mapping and application much faster. 2. Create Your Hedge Map (Required for BN11 & BN7) Every application must include a map  showing the hedge line. It doesn’t need to be professional — just clear. Your map must show: The field parcel number The exact hedge route  (a drawn line) Start and end points Length in metres Whether it’s BN11  or BN7 Any relevant notes (steep banks, streams, access issues) Acceptable types of maps: ✔ MAGIC Map print-out ✔ Rural Payments Service map ✔ A clear hand-drawn farm map (photo upload accepted) Tip: Keep a photo of your marked-up map — you’ll also need it when claiming payment after planting. 3. Log In to the Rural Payments Service (RPA) Before you apply: ✔ Log in to your Rural Payments Service  account ✔ Check your business details ✔ Make sure your land parcels  are accurately mapped ✔ Add an agent or adviser if needed ✔ Update contact details so you don’t miss RPA emails Incorrect land codes are one of the most common causes of delays. 4. Gather Your Required Evidence For BN11 and BN7, it’s helpful to prepare: For BN11 – New Hedge Planting A site photo of the proposed hedge line Your annotated map For BN7 – Gapping-Up Photos showing the existing hedge  and gaps Your annotated map You may also need: Landowner permission (if renting) Any consents required for SSSI, Scheduled Monuments, or protected sites Quotes (sometimes requested by advisers) This preparation makes the application quick once the window opens. 5. Submit Your Application (When the Countryside Stewardship Capital Grants 2026 window opens – usually spring) Once applications open: Log in to the Rural Payments Service Choose “Capital Grants” Select your items: BN11 — New Hedge Planting BN7 — Hedgerow Gapping-Up Enter the exact length  of each section Upload your map Check totals and confirm Submit your application You’ll receive confirmation from the RPA when your application is received and when it’s approved. 6. Order Your Plants After Approval Once approved, you can order your planting stock. Bowhayes Trees supplies: CS-compliant native hedge packs Species mixes that meet BN11 rules (5+ species, max 70% hawthorn) BN7 gap-fill species matches Hedgerow trees (HRW3-compatible) Guards, stakes and planting accessories Ordering early ensures you receive your plants in your preferred window (Nov–March). 7. Plant During the Correct Season (Nov–March) After your application is approved and plants arrive: ✔ Plant in the winter season ✔ Use a double-staggered row ✔ 5–7 plants per metre ✔ Native-only mix ✔ Keep evidence as you go (photos & invoices) You’ll use this evidence later for your RPA claim. If you’re new to hedge planting, see our full “ How to Plant a Countryside Stewardship Hedge”   guide (coming next). 8. Submit Your Claim After Planting To receive your payment: Log in to Rural Payments Upload photos  showing the hedge planted Upload your Bowhayes Trees invoice Submit your claim before the deadline Most BN11 and BN7 claims are processed quickly when the evidence is clear. ⭐ Simple BN11/BN7 Application Checklist Before Applying ✔ Measure hedge length ✔ Create your map ✔ Check parcel data ✔ Take site photos ✔ Confirm BN11 or BN7 During Application ✔ Select the correct item ✔ Enter lengths carefully ✔ Upload map ✔ Submit online After Approval ✔ Order hedging plants ✔ Plant between Nov–March ✔ Keep evidence for claims 🌱 How to Apply for BN11 & BN7: Final Thoughts Applying for BN11 or BN7 doesn’t have to be complicated. With a clear map, the right hedge measurements and a quick online submission, the process is surprisingly straightforward — and the funding can make a real difference to your winter planting plans. If you're preparing your application, Bowhayes Trees can help with: Native hedge packs designed for BN11 & BN7 Hedgerow trees and accessories CS-compliant species mixes Friendly, practical advice for farmers Ready to plant? Explore our hedge packs or move on to the next guide: 👉 How to Plant a Countryside Stewardship Hedge ( BN11 & BN7 Planting Guide )

Once your BN11 or BN7 application has been approved and your plants have arrived, it’s time to get them in the ground. Planting a Countryside Stewardship hedge is straightforward when you follow the correct specification — and getting it right ensures your claim is accepted without issues. This guide walks you through everything you need to know, from spacing to species mix, so you can plant a healthy, compliant hedge that thrives for years to come. 1. Know the Requirements (BN11 & BN7 Rules) Countryside Stewardship hedges must be planted according to the official specification: ✔ Double-staggered row Two rows, offset, forming a strong structure. ✔ 5–7 plants per metre This ensures density and good long-term shape. ✔ Native species only Required for both BN11 (new hedges) and BN7 (gapping-up). ✔ Maximum 70% hawthorn And at least four other native species  for BN11. ✔ Plant between November and March This is the accepted bare-root planting season. Bowhayes Trees' hedge packs are designed to meet these requirements automatically. 2. Prepare the Ground Good preparation makes a big difference to your young hedge. ✔ Mark out your hedge line Use string, canes, or spray paint to set your line accurately. ✔ Remove weeds and grass Clear a strip about 40–60cm wide  to reduce competition. ✔ Improve poorly drained ground If drainage is slow, create a shallow trench to lift the root zone slightly. ✔ Keep livestock off the line Young hedges need protection from sheep, cattle, deer, and rabbits. 3. Set Out Your Plants Spacing Two staggered rows , 30–40cm apart 5–7 plants per metre  (usually 6 per metre) Plants offset  rather than in straight opposing lines Species mix For BN11: Max 70% hawthorn Minimum 4 other species (e.g., blackthorn, hazel, field maple, spindle, dog rose). For BN7: Match or improve the existing hedge species Bowhayes’ CS-compliant mixes make this simple. 4. Planting Your Hedge Bare-root plants are quick and easy to plant. ✔ Create a slit or T-shaped notch with a spade Open the soil enough for the roots to fit comfortably. ✔ Position the plant at the correct depth The soil should cover all the roots up to the nursery soil line. ✔ Firm the soil around the roots Press with your boot to remove air pockets and stabilise the plant. ✔ Water well (especially in dry spells) Even winter-planted hedges benefit from watering during dry periods. 5. Add Guards and Protection Young hedges are highly vulnerable. Recommended protection: Spiral guards  for hedging whips Stakes or bamboo canes  for stability Tree shelters  for hedgerow trees Rabbit netting  if rabbits are an issue Stock fencing  if livestock graze nearby Protection dramatically increases success rates and is often essential for BN11 claims. 6. Mulch and Weed Control To help your hedge establish: ✔ Apply a light mulch (woodchip or composted bark) ✔ Avoid piling mulch against stems ✔ Weed regularly during the first 2–3 years ✔ Maintain at least a 40–60cm weed-free strip This reduces competition and speeds up establishment. 7. Evidence for Your Countryside Stewardship Claim As you plant, take the following evidence — you’ll need it to claim payment: ✔ Photos of the hedge after planting Show clear sections, guards, and the double row. ✔ Photos of the hedge line from multiple angles Include start and end points. ✔ A copy of your Bowhayes Trees invoice Keep it safe until you submit your claim. ✔ Optional: date-stamped photos or planting logs Useful if RPA requests extra information. Keeping evidence throughout planting avoids delays during reimbursement. 8. First-Year Aftercare (Essential for Inspections) In the first 12 months: ✔ Replace failed plants ✔ Keep the line weed-free ✔ Maintain guards and fences ✔ Water during dry periods ✔ Avoid trimming until the hedge is well established ✔ Keep livestock away from the hedge A well-maintained first year sets the hedge up for decades of growth. ⭐ Quick Planting Checklist (Print or Save) Double-staggered row 5–7 plants per metre Native species only Plant Nov–March Max 70% hawthorn Protect from livestock & rabbits Mulch and weed control Photo evidence taken Keep your invoice for claims 🌱 Final Thoughts Planting a Countryside Stewardship hedge under BN11 or BN7 is a rewarding project that enhances your farm’s landscape, biodiversity and shelter. With the right planting method and good aftercare, your hedge will establish quickly and provide long-term value — and meet RPA inspection standards with ease. Bowhayes Trees can support your planting with: CS-compliant hedge packs Hedgerow trees Stakes, guards, and planting accessories Friendly, practical advice throughout the process If you're now ready to order your plants, explore our native hedge packs or get in touch for tailored recommendations.

Table of Contents Essential Tree and Shrub Care Soil Prep and Border Refresh Best Trees and Shrubs for December Planting Managing Garden Maintenance December Gardening Round-Up FAQs December brings one of the quietest and most reflective moments in the gardening year. Across the UK, days are short, temperatures dip below freezing, and the ground often shifts between damp, frosty, and occasionally snow-covered. Yet despite the slower pace, this month offers valuable opportunities for anyone caring for ornamental trees , shrubs , hedging , or fruit trees . Cold weather signals dormancy, creating the perfect window for winter planting, soil improvement, and essential maintenance. Bare-root season is in full swing, structural pruning can begin on many species, and protective tasks help safeguard your outdoor space from frost damage and winter winds. Whether you’re planting a new hedge, shaping your fruit trees, refreshing borders, or caring for container plants, December is all about setting strong foundations for the year ahead. This guide brings together expert, practical December gardening tips UK , helping you make the most of the season while keeping your garden healthy, resilient, and ready for spring. Essential December Tree and Shrub Care Moisture Management As winter deepens, soil can still dry out in exposed or free-draining areas. Check the moisture levels around newly planted trees, shrubs, and hedging — the top few centimetres should feel damp but never waterlogged. During frost-free spells, water deeply rather than little and often, as this encourages roots to extend further into the soil. Evergreens such as Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) , Holly (Ilex aquifolium) , and Yew (Taxus baccata)  continue to transpire slowly during winter, making them more vulnerable to cold, drying winds. A slow, deep drink during milder periods helps prevent leaf scorch and winter stress. Mulching for Root Protection Mulching is one of the most beneficial winter tasks for woody plants. A layer of compost, bark fines, or leaf mould around the base of trees and shrubs helps regulate soil temperature, prevents frost heave, and supports soil organisms even in colder weather. Keep mulch a few centimetres away from the trunk or stems to avoid trapping moisture against the bark. For more detailed information on the benefits of mulching and the best materials to use in winter, see the RHS advice on mulching . Check Stakes and Supports Strong winter winds can loosen young trees and newly planted hedging. Inspect stakes regularly and ensure ties are firm but not tight. A little movement helps the plant build a stronger trunk, but excessive rocking can damage developing roots. Replace damaged ties and reposition any supports that have shifted during storms. For further guidance on caring for young trees during the colder months, the RHS has excellent winter tree care advice designed for UK conditions. Quick Fact: Roots continue growing whenever soil temperatures are above 5°C — even in December — making winter an ideal time for establishing new trees and hedging Soil Prep and Border Refresh Clear and Clean Borders Begin by clearing away fallen leaves, tired annuals, and any debris from ornamental beds. Healthy leaves can be added to your compost heap or leaf mould pile, while any diseased material should be disposed of to prevent fungal spores from overwintering. With borders more visible at this time of year, it’s easier to spot persistent weeds — removing them now prevents a stronger resurgence in spring. Improve Soil Structure December is an ideal time to nourish your soil without disturbing dormant roots. Spread a generous layer of compost, leaf mould, or well-rotted manure across beds and around the base of trees and shrubs. There’s no need to dig it in — winter rain, worms, and natural freeze–thaw cycles carry organic matter down through the soil, improving structure and fertility ahead of the growing season. Tackle Drainage Issues If parts of your garden stay waterlogged in winter, now is the moment to identify and address problem areas. Heavy clay soils benefit from the addition of grit or garden compost, while raised beds or subtle contouring can help redirect excess water. Protecting roots from sitting in cold, saturated soil helps prevent winter dieback. For broader guidance on preparing soil throughout the year, take a look at our seasonal planting tips for trees, hedging, climbers, and shrubs . Top Tip: Avoid walking on wet or frozen soil — it compacts easily in winter, limiting oxygen flow to roots and slowing spring growth. What to Plant This Month December may feel quiet in the garden, but it’s still an excellent time for planting. Bare-root season is in full swing, and the cool, moist soil allows new trees and shrubs to settle their roots with minimal stress. Whether you’re adding structure, colour, or wildlife interest, winter planting gives your outdoor space a strong head start for spring. Here are six excellent choices to plant this month — each offering resilience, character, and long-term appeal for your outdoor space: Italian Cypress – Elegant Evergreen Structure Cupressus sempervirens ‘Totem is a striking evergreen ideal for adding height and architectural interest during the bare winter months. Its narrow, upright shape suits small gardens, entrances, and formal designs. Planted in December, this hardy cypress establishes well in cool, moist soil and offers year-round colour and structure. Flowering Cherry – Compact & Early Flowering Prunus incisa ‘The Bride’ , a charming ornamental cherry, produces masses of pure white spring blossom, often emerging as early as late February. Compact and easy to grow, it’s a perfect choice for smaller spaces or feature planting. Winter is the ideal time to establish deciduous cherries, allowing roots to settle before the flowering season. Juneberry – Four-Season Appeal Amelanchier lamarckii is a versatile garden favourite offering spring flowers, summer berries, striking autumn colour, and a graceful winter silhouette. Juneberry thrives when planted in winter conditions and is well-suited to cottage gardens, wildlife-friendly spaces, or mixed borders. The berries are especially valuable for birds during winter. Flowering Plum – Stunning Early Colour Prunus × blireana , a beautiful ornamental plum known for its double pink blossoms and attractive bronze foliage. Planting in December gives this tree an excellent start, with blossoms emerging early in spring when gardens need colour most. Its compact size makes it suitable for urban or suburban spaces. Cockspur Thorn – Hardy & Wildlife-Friendly Crataegus persimilis ‘Prunifolia Splendens' , a robust, highly ornamental thorn tree offering glossy leaves, autumn colour, and clusters of bright red berries. Cockspur Thorn thrives in exposed or challenging locations and supports garden wildlife throughout winter. Bare-root planting in December encourages strong root development before spring. Willow Cotoneaster – Semi-Evergreen Winter Interest Cotoneaster salicifolius ‘Rothschildianus’ , with its graceful arching habit, creamy-white berries, and semi-evergreen foliage, this cotoneaster provides valuable winter structure and food for wildlife. It’s easy to grow, tolerant of poor soils, and ideal for winter planting. A great choice for low-maintenance winter interest. If you’re planting during particularly cold spells, our winter guide to planting trees amidst frost and snow explains how to ensure young trees establish safely. Planting for Lasting Impact Planting in December isn’t just about filling gaps — it’s an investment in long-term structure and character. Bare-root trees planted now benefit from cool, moist soil that encourages deep root growth without heat stress. Species such as Black Elder (Sambucus nigra ‘Black Beauty’)  establish well in winter and reward gardeners with dramatic foliage and flowers later in the year. Likewise, deciduous flowering trees — including Black Cherry Plum (Prunus cerasifera ‘Pissardi Nigra’)  — settle quietly through winter before bursting into colour in early spring. With a layer of mulch and occasional watering during mild spells, your December plantings will develop into resilient, reliable focal points for seasons to come. Winter Interest for Smaller Outdoor Spaces Compact outdoor spaces can enjoy winter structure and early colour with the right choices. For gardens needing a lift, Himalayan Birch (Betula utilis jacquemontii ‘Snow Queen’)  brings bright, elegant winter bark and a beautifully refined form that stands out even in the darkest months. If you prefer early flowering interest, Chinese Redbud (Cercis chinensis ‘Shirobana’)  offers beautiful blooms in early spring and thrives when planted during the dormant season. For a splash of colour and refined form, Hawthorn ‘Punicea’ (Crataegus x media ‘Punicea’)  provides vibrant, fuchsia-toned flowers and year-round structure in a compact shape. These smaller, ornamental species integrate easily into patios, courtyards, and borders, providing winter charm without overwhelming limited space. Managing Garden Maintenance While growth has slowed and many plants are dormant, December still offers important opportunities to keep your outdoor space healthy and protected. Winter maintenance is all about reducing damage from wind, frost, and disease, while ensuring young trees, shrubs, and hedging stay stable through the coldest months. A little attention now will make a noticeable difference when growth begins again in early spring. Winter Hedge Care Although heavy pruning is best left until late winter, December is a good moment to tidy and check your hedging. Remove wind-damaged or broken shoots, especially after storms, and clear any leaves lodged at the base of dense hedges. Wet masses of leaves can trap moisture and encourage fungal problems. Newly planted bare-root hedge whips will also benefit from a quick inspection — firm the soil gently around any that have lifted during freeze–thaw cycles. For more guidance on supporting trees and hedging after strong winter winds, our blog on recovering your garden after a storm offers practical steps for protecting young plants. Tree Stakes & Structural Support Strong winter winds can loosen young or recently planted trees. Walk through your garden periodically and test the stability of stakes and ties. Stakes should remain firm in the soil, while ties should be secure yet loose enough to allow very slight movement. Replace cracked stakes or rotting supports, as weakened posts can snap under winter gusts. For multi-stem shrubs or top-heavy ornamentals, consider adding a temporary winter stake if the site is particularly exposed. Clearing Debris & Preventing Disease December is an ideal month to remove debris before fungal problems develop. Clear away fallen leaves from paths, borders, and around the base of trees and shrubs — especially if they belonged to plants troubled by diseases such as black spot or rust earlier in the year. Dispose of any diseased material rather than composting it. Keeping borders tidy over winter reduces overwintering spores and creates a healthier environment for spring growth. If you’re concerned about potential problems overwintering in your garden, our guide on how to identify and treat tree diseases can help you spot the early signs. Frost & Snow Protection Cold snaps are common now, and young or tender plants benefit from a little extra protection. Apply mulch around the base of shrubs and trees to insulate roots and reduce frost heave. In snowy conditions, gently knock accumulated snow off hedges, conifers, and multi-stem shrubs, as the weight can splay branches or cause breakage. Keep horticultural fleece at hand for sudden frosts and drape it over vulnerable plants during particularly cold nights. Container & Patio Plant Care Check container-grown shrubs and trees regularly. Raise pots onto feet or bricks to stop them from sitting in water, and move vulnerable containers closer to the house for extra shelter. Only water during mild spells when compost feels dry — winter rainfall is often sufficient. Wrap ceramic pots in hessian or bubble wrap to prevent cracking and protect rootballs from freezing. Greenhouse Checks & Winter Clean-Up If you’re overwintering tender plants under cover, aim to keep your greenhouse just above freezing and ventilate on mild days to avoid excessive humidity. Remove dead leaves and debris promptly to reduce the risk of grey mould. Insulate the interior with bubble wrap if you haven’t already, and check that heaters or thermostats are working correctly. A mid-winter tidy also helps reduce pests and keeps your greenhouse running efficiently. Tool & Equipment Maintenance December is an excellent time to care for your tools. Clean mud and sap from blades, sharpen secateurs and loppers, and oil moving parts to prevent rust. Drain hoses and watering systems before frost damages them, and tidy sheds or storage areas so everything is ready when gardening picks up again in early spring. BBC Gardeners’ World also offers clear winter pruning advice, particularly useful for shaping apples and pears while avoiding stone fruit at this time of year. Expert Insight: A few minutes spent maintaining tools during winter can extend their lifespan significantly — sharp, clean blades make spring pruning easier and reduce disease spread. December Garden Round-Up December may be one of the quietest months in the gardening calendar, but it’s far from unimportant. With bare-root planting in full swing, this is an ideal moment to establish new trees, hedging, or feature shrubs while the soil is cool and moist. Winter’s natural dormancy gives young plants the chance to develop strong roots without the stress of summer heat. Maintenance this month focuses on protection and prevention. Clearing debris, firming in wind-rocked plants, topping up mulch, and safeguarding containers all help reduce the risk of frost damage, fungal issues, and winter dieback. Pruning apples and pears, checking stakes, and giving tools a seasonal clean also keep your garden in good shape during the darker days. By tackling these simple tasks now, you’re preparing your outdoor space for a strong, healthy start to the new year. When spring arrives, your efforts will be rewarded with earlier growth, healthier plants, and a garden that’s ready to flourish. FAQs What trees can I plant in December in the UK? December is an excellent month for planting bare-root trees, as they are fully dormant and establish quickly in cool, moist soil. Many ornamental and native species thrive when planted now, including Silver Birch (Betula pendula) , Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) , Juneberry (Amelanchier lamarckii) , and evergreen options such as Italian Cypress (Cupressus sempervirens ‘Totem’) . Winter planting helps young trees develop strong root systems before spring growth begins. Is December too late to plant hedging? Not at all. December is one of the very best times to plant bare-root hedging , as the plants are dormant and soil moisture supports strong root establishment. Excellent choices include Beech (Fagus sylvatica) , Hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) , Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) , and native mixed hedging packs. Avoid planting during frozen or waterlogged conditions and wait for a mild spell if necessary. Can I prune trees in December? Yes — but only selected species. December is the ideal month to prune apple  and pear  trees, as well as many dormant deciduous shrubs. Avoid pruning stone fruits  such as plums or cherries, and leave spring-flowering shrubs  until after they bloom. Any pruning done now should focus on dead, damaged, or crossing branches. How do I protect my plants from frost? Start by adding mulch around the base of trees and shrubs to insulate roots and prevent frost heave. Use horticultural fleece to protect vulnerable or newly planted species during hard frosts, and move containers to sheltered spots such as patios near the house. Raising pots onto feet helps stop waterlogging and prevents pots from cracking during freezing weather. Should I water my garden in winter? Water sparingly. Only water newly planted trees, hedging, or containers  during mild, frost-free spells when the soil feels dry. Winter rainfall is usually sufficient for established plants, but cold winds can dry out young evergreens, so check them regularly. What greenhouse jobs can I do in December? Ventilate on mild, dry days to reduce humidity, clear away dead leaves and debris, and check heaters or thermostats if you rely on frost protection. Insulate with bubble wrap to retain heat and reduce energy use. Water sparingly and only when the compost is dry, as overwatering is a common cause of winter losses under cover.

Planting or restoring a hedge under Countryside Stewardship can bring in valuable support through BN11 (new hedge planting)  and BN7 (gapping-up) . But before you apply, it’s important to make sure you meet the scheme’s eligibility rules. This guide breaks down everything you need to know — in plain English — so you can quickly confirm whether your hedge project qualifies for funding in 2026. What BN11 and BN7 Actually Cover BN11 — Planting New Hedges This option funds the planting of a completely new hedge  along a mapped line. It applies when: The hedge is 20 metres or longer There is no existing hedge  along that line You are creating a new boundary, shelterbelt, wildlife corridor, or field margin hedge BN7 — Hedgerow Gapping-Up This option is for filling gaps in an existing hedge . It applies when: The gap is less than 20 metres The existing hedge is clearly visible on the ground You are restoring structure and continuity, not creating a brand-new hedge ✅ 1. Eligibility Requirements for BN11 & BN7 To apply for either option, you must meet the following criteria: ✔ Land Control You must control the land for the full agreement period , including the hedge line itself. If you rent the land, you will need written permission from your landlord. ✔ Correct Planting Season All BN11/BN7 hedges must be planted between: 1 November – 31 March ✔ Native Species Only The hedge must use 100% native species  that are appropriate to your local area. Bowhayes hedge mixes are designed specifically to meet this rule. ✔ Species Mix Requirements For BN11 (new hedges), the rules require: No more than 70% hawthorn At least 4 other native species A typical double-staggered row 5–7 plants per metre BN7 should also use native species, ideally matching or improving the existing hedge. ✅ 2. Hedge Length Rules BN11 — New Hedge ✔ Must be 20m or longer ✔ Can be in multiple sections (each 20m+) ✔ Suitable for creating new boundaries or wildlife corridors BN7 — Gapping-Up ✔ For gaps under 20m ✔ Used to restore existing hedge lines ✔ The hedge must already exist on both sides of the gap If you want to create a hedge longer than 20m that includes several gaps , you usually need a combination of BN11 + BN7 (your advisor or Bowhayes can guide you). ✅ 3. Mapping Requirements (Essential for Eligibility) Every BN11/BN7 application requires a simple map showing: The exact location  of the hedge Start and end points Length in metres Whether it is BN11  or BN7 The field parcel number Any relevant notes (e.g., slope, access, proximity to watercourses) You can use: MAGIC Map Rural Payments Service mapping tools A hand-drawn map (upload a photo) There is no official “map guide”, but including these details is essential for RPA approval. ✅ 4. Evidence Requirements To be eligible, you may need to provide: Photographs of the existing hedge gaps  (BN7) A clear photo of the proposed new hedge line  (BN11) Tenancy or landlord permission if you rent the land A simple annotated map Species information ( Bowhayes provides this) Keeping evidence early will make your claim easier later. ❌ 5. When You Are Not  Eligible You may not be eligible if: You cannot plant during winter You do not control the land The “existing hedge” for BN7 is too degraded to identify You are trying to use BN7 to plant a brand-new hedge You want to use non-native species (not allowed) The hedge will be planted on Scheduled Monuments or in restricted-designation sites without consent If you’re unsure, it’s usually best to map the area and ask the RPA or your adviser to confirm. ⭐ Quick Eligibility Checklist (Copy & Save) Use this to double-check you're ready to apply: BN11 – New Hedge Planting ✔ Hedge is 20m+ ✔ Fully new hedge line ✔ Native species only ✔ Max 70% hawthorn ✔ Minimum 4 additional species ✔ Plant Nov–March ✔ You control the land ✔ Clear map completed BN7 – Gapping-Up ✔ Gap is under 20m ✔ Clear existing hedge structure ✔ Native species only ✔ Plant Nov–March ✔ Clear map completed 🌱 Final Thoughts Checking eligibility before you apply saves time, prevents rework, and ensures your planting plan fits Countryside Stewardship rules. If you’re planning a BN11 or BN7 hedge for winter 2025–26, Bowhayes Trees can help with: Native hedging packs are compliant with CS rules Mixed-species hedge bundles Hedgerow trees Guards, canes, and accessories Friendly, practical advice tailored to your land When you’re ready, explore our hedge packs or move on to the next guide in the series: 👉 How to Apply for BN11 or BN7 (Step-by-Step Guide)

If the Countryside Stewardship process feels complicated, you’re not alone. Below is a straightforward, step-by-step checklist  to help farmers understand exactly what to do for the 2026 Countryside Stewardship application  — without wading through pages of guidance. Use this as your quick reference guide . 1. Check if Your Eligible Before you start the process, confirm whether you’re actually eligible for the 2026 scheme. Use this quick guide: You ARE eligible if: ✔ You have an existing Countryside Stewardship agreement that ends in 2025 (you will be offered a 1-year extension). ✔ You manage land that is registered on the Rural Payments Service. ✔ Your land parcels meet the rules for the options you want (e.g. hedge planting, woodland creation, margins). ✔ You receive an invitation from Natural England/RPA for a Higher Tier application (invitations only — you cannot self-apply). ✔ You meet any specific requirements for capital items (e.g. native species rules, quotes, consents). You are NOT eligible if: ✘ Your land is not registered or mapped correctly on the Rural Payments Service. ✘ You do not receive a Higher Tier invitation, but want to apply for Higher Tier (you must  wait for an invite). ✘ You want capital items that are only available through Higher Tier, but you haven’t been invited. ✘ Your land does not meet the option requirements (for example, non-agricultural land where an option cannot be placed). ✘ You cannot meet the management rules (e.g. grazing restrictions, cutting dates, maintenance obligations). If you’re unsure Call the RPA — they will confirm your eligibility based on: ✔ your agreement end date ✔ your land parcel codes ✔ the options you want ✔ whether Higher Tier invitations apply to you 2. Check Which Route Applies to You Before doing anything, work out which category you fall into: If you already have a CS agreement ending in 2025 ✔ You’ll receive a one-year extension offer  from the RPA. ✔ No “new application” required — just accept the extension . ✔ You must reply before the deadline  (usually late November 2025). If you want a NEW Higher Tier agreement for 2026 ✔ You cannot apply without an invitation  from Natural England/RPA. ✔ Wait for your pre-application advice appointment . ✔ When invited, follow your personalised application timeline. If you want new capital works (hedges, fencing, woodland, etc.) ✔ Check if a Capital Grants 2026 round  opens. ✔ Some items may only be available through Higher Tier. If you’re unsure which path fits you, phone RPA early — they’ll confirm what you’re eligible for. 3. Get Your Rural Payments Account Ready Whether extending or applying anew, make sure your digital setup is correct. ✔ Log in to the Rural Payments Service . ✔ Check your business details  are correct. ✔ Ensure your land parcels are mapped accurately . ✔ Add permission for any agents or advisors  helping you. Incorrect land codes are one of the most common reasons for delays. Fix them before  you start. 4. Gather What You Need (Before You Apply or Accept) Having everything ready makes the process much easier. For extensions ✔ Simply review your existing agreement ✔ Confirm you can continue all management prescriptions in 2026. For Higher Tier or capital applications Gather: ✔ Farm maps ✔ Proposed option locations (hedges, woodland, margins etc.) ✔ Photos of existing features (for capital items) ✔ Quotes (if required for specific items) ✔ Consents (SSSI, Scheduled Monument, landlord permission) Sketch your plan on paper before entering anything online — it saves time and reduces errors. 5. Follow the Correct Action for Your Application Type A. For 2026 Agreement EXTENSIONS Look out for RPA contact (email or letter). Read through your offer. Click ‘Accept Extension’  by the deadline. Continue your existing options exactly as before. B. For NEW Higher Tier Applications Attend your pre-application advisory meeting . Plan your land options with your adviser. Wait for your official RPA invitation . Log in and complete your application online. Submit before the date given in your invite. Respond to any follow-up questions from Natural England. Accept your final Agreement Offer . C. For NEW Capital Grants (if available in 2026) Choose the capital items you need (e.g., hedge planting BN11). Map out where each item will go. Gather quotes/photos. Submit your application as soon as the window opens. Complete works and keep evidence for claims. 6. Key 2026 Stewardship Dates Early Nov 2025  – RPA sends extension offers 27 Nov 2025 (approx.)  – Deadline to accept extensions Throughout 2025  – Higher Tier invites sent in phases 1 January 2026  – All accepted agreements begin 15 May 2026  – Likely deadline for annual revenue claims 31 December 2026  – Extension agreements end Extension agreements cannot be changed — no new options or capital items can be added. 7. Simple Checklist for Adding Hedges & Trees (BN11 etc.) If you’re planting hedges or trees under stewardship: ✔ Use native species only  (required). ✔ Ensure no more than 70% hawthorn . ✔ Include at least 4 other native species . ✔ Plant during winter (Nov–March). ✔ Order the correct size of plants (40–60cm bare-root) . ✔ Keep invoices and photos for claims. You can simplify planting by using a ready-made Countryside Stewardship hedge pack 8. After Acceptance: What Farmers Must Do in 2026 ✔ Follow each option’s management rules (dates, stocking rates, no-cut periods). ✔ Keep evidence  (photos, invoices, activity logs). ✔ Submit claims on time. ✔ Respond to any RPA inspections. ✔ Keep ongoing records for 7+ years (standard scheme requirement). Final Thoughts Applying for Countryside Stewardship doesn’t need to be confusing. By following this simple step-by-step checklist , farmers can confidently: Know whether they’re extending or applying Get their paperwork right Meet every deadline Plan hedges, woodland, and habitat options correctly Secure funding for the 2026 scheme year If you’re planning hedge planting or woodland creation as part of your application, Bowhayes Trees can help with native tree packs , CS-compliant hedge packs , and friendly advice tailored to your land.

If you’re a farmer or landowner looking to plant hedgerows, trees, or woodlands, there’s a wealth of grant funding across the UK to help. Each country – England, Scotland, and Wales – has its own schemes, but all aim to support sustainable farming, wildlife habitat creation, and climate resilience. In this guide, we break down the major grant options available as of 2026, including what’s on offer, who’s eligible, how to apply, and key differences between regions. We’ll keep things clear and farmer-friendly, with simple explanations (no complicated jargon) and handy tips so you can confidently navigate the application process. Let’s dig in! England – Countryside Stewardship and Woodland Grants In England, most planting grants fall under Countryside Stewardship (CS)  or newer forestry initiatives. These schemes reward farmers for creating and managing hedges, trees, and woodlands that benefit wildlife and the environment. Here’s an overview of the main options: Hedgerow Planting and Management (Countryside Stewardship) England’s Countryside Stewardship offers “Boundaries, Trees and Orchards”  capital grants to plant and improve hedgerows. Four key grant options (by code)  cover hedgerow work: BN11 – Planting New Hedges:  Pays £22.97 per metre  of new hedgerow planted . This helps cover the cost of plants, planting, and basic establishment. BN11 is for creating hedges where none existed (or where a historic hedge is being reinstated). You must have control of both sides of the hedge line (e.g. not just along a neighbo u r’s field). The hedge must be planted in the dormant season (1 Nov–31 Mar) with native species, at least 6 plants per metre in a double-staggered row . Common requirements include using 2-year-old locally native plants, no more than 70% of any one species, and planting with a double row  (rows ~40 cm apart) to form a thick hedge . You’ll also need to fence out livestock at least 1.2 m away during establishment . BN11 cannot be used for small gaps (<20 m) in existing hedges  – it’s meant for entirely new hedge lines (or gaps longer than 20 m). Tip: Many nurseries offer “BN11 hedging packs” of mixed native species that meet these specs, making it easier to comply with the scheme requirements. BN7 – Hedgerow Gapping-Up:  Pays £17.22 per metre  for filling gaps in existing hedges up to 20 m long . Use BN7 for patching missing sections so your hedge becomes a continuous boundary again. The planting specs are similar to BN11 (native species, 6 plants/m in double rows). Only gaps longer than 20 m are treated as “new hedge” (BN11); shorter gaps should use BN7 . As with BN11, work must be done in winter dormancy (Nov–Mar), and you should replace any failed plants the next season . BN5 – Hedgerow Laying:  Pays £13.52 per metre  of hedge laid . Hedgelaying rejuvenates overgrown hedges by partially cutting and bending stems along the hedge line to fill gaps and spur new growth. This grant helps cover labour/time for traditional laying between September and March . You must lay the hedge in the local style and secure the pleachers (cut stems) with stakes/binders . All cut material should be cleared away , and the hedge protected from livestock until regrowth is underway . BN5 is great for older hedges that have grown tall/thin at the base – laying them creates a dense, stock-proof hedge again. (There are also supplements  like BN9 or BN10 that can provide extra funds if a hedge needs heavy prep work or top binding in addition to laying .) BN6 – Hedgerow Coppicing:  Pays £5.33 per metre  for coppicing hedgerows . Coppicing means cutting the hedge shrubs down to near ground level to stimulate vigorous regrowth from the base. It’s often used for very overgrown or leggy hedges (often done on a cycle for hedge rejuvenation). Like laying, it’s done in winter dormancy (Oct–Mar). All stems are cut (≤10 cm from the ground) on each coppiced section to encourage an even flush of new shoots . You must protect the stools (stumps) from browsing and allow the hedge to regrow and fill in . Coppicing has a lower payment rate because it’s typically less labo u r-intensive than laying, but it can be combined with BN7/BN11 if replanting gaps is needed after cutting. Eligibility & How to Apply (England hedgerows) All these hedgerow grants are capital items  under Countryside Stewardship. They’re available to farmers and land managers in England with suitable land (generally agricultural land, including field boundaries). You’ll apply through the Rural Payments service (under a CS Mid-Tier or Capital Grant  application). Applications can usually be made year-round, but funding is limited – DEFRA allocated £150 million in 2025 and had to pause new applications due to high demand . From 2025 onward, one application per farm business per year is allowed (with a £35k cap for the “Boundaries, Trees and Orchards” items per application). Practically, this means you might bundle several hedgerow lengths and related items into one application. It’s a competitive process in that funding is first-come, first-served until the pot is allocated, but most standard hedgerow proposals that meet the rules should get approved if funds are available. When to plant and claim Once you have an agreement, you’ll typically plant in the winter season ( grant agreements will specify that hedging must be done between November and March when plants are dormant). You’ll need to keep evidence – e.g. maps of where you planted (especially if replanting historic hedge lines) and photographs after completion . After planting and any required follow-up (like a year of establishment maintenance), you submit a claim to the Rural Payments Agency (with photos, receipts for plants/guards, etc.) to get paid . Tip Hedgerow grants in England can be combined  with other schemes. For example, you could plant a new hedge with BN11 and simultaneously be in the Sustainable Farming Incentive (SFI)  for hedgerow management on your other hedge lengths – there’s no conflict as long as you’re not double-funding the same length of hedge. In fact, the CS capital grants are designed to complement  SFI and other stewardship actions . Also, if significant prep work is needed (like removing old fence or bank restoration), there are supplemental grants (BN8, BN9, BN10 , etc.) that can be added onto a BN5/BN6/BN7 application . Make sure to mention these in your application if applicable. Tree Planting and Woodland Creation (England) For planting larger numbers of trees or creating woodlands, England’s flagship offer is the England Woodland Creation Offer (EWCO) , run by the Forestry Commission. This is a generous scheme aimed at meeting national tree planting targets and is very relevant for farmers diversifying into forestry or agroforestry. Key features of EWCO : Funding per hectare: EWCO provides up to £10,200 per hectare  towards the costs of planting a new woodland . This is a capital grant that covers standard planting materials and operations (trees, guards, ground prep, etc.). It’s not paid as a strict per-tree rate, but effectively it assumes a typical new woodland planting density (which is around 1,100–1,600 trees/ha for most woodlands). On top of this, you can get additional contributions  (up to £12,700 extra per hectare ) for woodlands that deliver public benefits like enhancing nature recovery networks, water quality, flood prevention or social/public access benefits . These add-ons encourage you to design your woodland in ways that, for example, create new habitat for wildlife or buffer watercourses (the scheme guidance lists specific criteria for extra funding tiers). Annual maintenance payments : To ensure young woodlands get established, EWCO pays £400/ha per year for 15 years  for maintenance . This is a big help for tasks like replacing failed trees, weeding, and managing tree protection. It means over 15 years , you could receive £6,000/ha just in maintenance funding (on top of the up-front capital grant). In return, you’re expected to manage the new woodland in line with good practice (following the UK Forestry Standard) – e.g. controlling weeds, protecting against pests, and not just planting and forgetting. Flexibility and timing: Unlike some farm grants that have narrow windows, EWCO is open year-round for applications . You can apply at any time, though the review process takes a few months. To plant in the next winter season, you should apply by ~31 May of that year . Applications after autumn (e.g. after October) likely won’t get approved in time to plant that winter, so they’d be aiming for the following season . The application involves mapping out the proposed woodland, getting any necessary consents (like Environmental Impact Assessment screening if >2 ha, or planning permission if planting will affect public rights of way, etc.), and ensuring your design meets the scheme rules (like appropriate species mix, stocking density, and no planting on protected habitats). The Forestry Commission provides guidance and even expert advisors to help you plan – they want your woodland to succeed and be in the right place. Who can apply: EWCO is open to farmers, landowners, and land managers in England  with land suitable for woodland. The land must not be existing woodland (it’s for new woodland creation) and generally should be low-risk in terms of not harming other environmental assets (they have maps of “low sensitivity” areas which even get a bonus £1,100/ha if your whole site is in a preferred area for woodland). You do not  need to be a full-time forester – many farmers use EWCO to plant shelterbelts, woodlots, or to diversify land use. Just be prepared that any EWCO woodland needs to be maintained as woodland in the long term (there’s an expectation it remains as forest for at least 30+ years, aligned with carbon sequestration goals, etc.). Combining with other funding: You can’t get other government funds for the same trees, but you can  stack EWCO with private financing. In fact, EWCO is designed to work alongside the Woodland Carbon Code  – you can register your new woodland to generate certified carbon units to sell to businesses, providing an extra income stream . The grant is adjusted so you’re not double-paid for the carbon sequestered, but you still can benefit. Also, if your woodland plan includes public access or other features, you might combine EWCO with local initiatives (like community tree planting programmes) – just coordinate to avoid double funding. Notably, EWCO cannot be used for commercial fruit orchards or Christmas tree plantations (those are excluded uses) – it’s for genuine woodland. Other England Tree Grants Aside from EWCO, smaller-scale tree planting on farms can also be funded through Countryside Stewardship capital items. For instance, item TE4 – “Supply and Plant a Tree”  offers £1.72 per tree   planted , which can be used for planting trees in hedgerows, parkland, or small copses. Under CS, if you were creating a woodland under 5 ha, you might use a combination of TE4 (for the trees) plus other items for fencing, guards, etc. CS used to offer a Woodland Creation and Maintenance  grant similar to EWCO (with £200/ha for 10 years maintenance) – this has largely been superseded by EWCO’s more generous terms, but the principle is the same. Also, keep an eye out for specialised funds: e.g. the Urban Tree Challenge Fund  (if you have land in urban fringes), or HS2 Woodland Fund  (for planting woods in certain areas of England) – those are more niche, but worth noting if applicable to your situation. England Application Pointers To apply for these English schemes, you’ll do so via the Rural Payments Agency (likely through the online portal). For EWCO, you actually fill out a dedicated application form with the Forestry Commission (downloadable from GOV.UK ) and work with their staff. The application checklist  usually includes: a map of the planting site, a design plan (tree species, spacing, any open spaces, etc.), and evidence of consultation for things like protected species or historic features on site. It sounds a lot, but many farmers have successfully navigated it – and you can get advice from Forestry Commission woodland officers for free. Once your application is in, expect a few months for approval. After planting, you claim the grant (for EWCO, payments are often split – for example, 70% after planting completion and 30% after verification). Then you’ll get annual maintenance payments automatically as long as you uphold the agreement (e.g. submitting any required annual reports or claim forms). The bottom line  is that in England, there is significant support if you want to plant or restore hedges and woodlands – it just requires some upfront planning and paperwork, which is well worth it for the funding received. (England summary: Countryside Stewardship hedgerow grants can pay ~£13–£23 per metre for laying, gapping or planting hedges , and the England Woodland Creation Offer can fund over £10k/ha plus ongoing payments for creating new woods . Most schemes are over-subscribed, so apply early and ensure your proposals meet the guidelines. Now, let’s see how Scotland compares…) Scotland – Agri-Environment and Forestry Grants Scotland has its own robust set of schemes to encourage tree planting and habitat creation, tailored to Scottish priorities. The two main avenues are the Agri-Environment Climate Scheme (AECS)  – which includes options for hedgerows and tree planting on farms – and the Forestry Grant Scheme (FGS)  for larger-scale woodland creation and management. Here’s what Scottish farmers need to know: Hedgerow Creation and Management (Scotland AECS) Under the Agri-Environment Climate Scheme, Scottish farmers can get support both to manage existing hedges  and to plant new hedgerows . The specific option for new planting is called “Creation of Hedgerows” . Unlike England’s one-off payments, the Scottish approach combines capital and annual payments over a multi-year contract: Planting a new hedge ( capital grant) :  You can claim £5.40 per metre  of hedge planted . This is a one-time payment for the physical planting work – buying the hawthorn/blackthorn (or other native species) plants, planting them, etc. It’s intended to cover the upfront cost of establishing a hedge. Annual maintenance payment:  In addition, the scheme pays £1.20 per metre per year  for 5 years  for hedgerow creation . So that’s £6.00 over five years in maintenance funding for each metre of hedge. This helps with ongoing tasks like weeding, beating up (replacing failed plants), and not cutting the hedge too soon. Essentially, Scotland’s AECS rewards you for keeping that new hedge thriving through its establishment phase (contrast with England’s one-off approach).  Example:  If you planted 500 m of new hedge, you’d get £5.40 × 500 = £2,700 as a capital payment, plus £1.20 × 500 = £600 each year for five years (total £3,000 maintenance over 5 years). Combined, about £11.40 per metre  in support overall, which is comparable with the English grant when fully tallied, though spread over time. Other supported items:  The hedgerow option in Scotland is usually done in combination with related capital items: for instance, fencing  (to protect the new hedge from livestock) can be funded, as well as rabbit guards  or vole guards for the young plants . If you are restoring a hedge, coppicing  grants are available too. The idea is to provide a package – you pick what you need from the menu. Note that fence funding  is important; in Scotland, any new hedge must be protected from grazing (you’re required to exclude livestock from the hedge), and the scheme doesn’t automatically include fence costs in the £5.40/m – but you can claim a stock fence grant separately (and things like rabbit-proof mesh as needed). Eligibility and specs:  To qualify, your new hedge has to be in an approved target area  (Scotland targets hedge planting to certain regions where it’s a priority – you can check a map tool to see if your farm is eligible). You also need to have access to both sides  of where the hedge will go (so you can cut and manage it fully) – planting a hedge tight against a stone dyke or a neighbour’s boundary might not be eligible unless there’s agreement on joint management. And importantly, you must follow the scheme’s planting requirements : at least 6 plants per metre in a double row , using at least 3 different native shrub species  in the mix . (Hawthorn, blackthorn, hazel, holly, dog rose, etc., are typical – pure beech hedges aren’t funded unless special permission is given, since they prefer biodiversity-friendly mixes). These requirements are very much in line with best practice and similar to England’s – essentially a dense, species-rich hedge. You also have to plant the hedge in year 1 of your AECS contract  (no procrastinating – the grant expects you to get the hedge in the ground promptly). After planting, you’re committing to manage  that hedge for at least 5 years: this includes not trimming it every year  (the rule is you can’t cut the same hedge annually; typically you’d cut on a 2-3 year rotation to allow flowers/berries), only trimming between 1 Dec and end Feb (to avoid bird nesting season), keeping a diary  of your hedge management actions , and of course keeping stock out and ensuring the hedge establishes well (weed control as needed). Application process:  AECS usually opens an application window annually (in early spring; for example, the 2025 round opened in Feb 2025 and closed in June 2025 ). You’ll need to submit a proposal through Scotland’s rural payments online system. Part of the application for hedges is preparing a simple Hedgerow Management Plan  – basically a map of where the hedge will go and how you’ll manage it (including any planned coppicing or gapping of existing hedges, etc.). It sounds formal, but it can be straightforward: mark the hedge line on a map, note the length, species, and your intended cutting rotation. The scheme is competitive (there’s scoring based on how beneficial your project is and if you’re in target areas), but hedgerows have been a priority feature, so well-planned applications have a good chance. Do note that, in some recent rounds , there were limits on how many metres you could apply for (e.g. 500 m cap in older rounds , later raised to 1,000 m, and as of 2025, the cap was lifted entirely to encourage more planting ). Always check the latest guidance for any cap or funding limits. Once you’re approved, your contract will typically run 5 years . You plant the hedge in Year 1 (and submit a capital claim for the £5.40/m payment). Then each year you claim the £1.20/m maintenance (which might be part of your annual SAF – Single Application Form – claim under agri-environment). At the end, you’ve got a healthy hedge and a slight income for maintaining it. After the contract, you’re expected to continue good practice (though payments cease). Note that even after the 5 years, hedgerows in Scotland are protected by law (the Hedgerow Regulations and cross-compliance rules) from being removed, so planting a hedge is a long-term improvement to your farm. Overall, Scotland’s hedgerow grants  put a bit more on management and planning, but they effectively cover all costs of planting  (especially when combined with fence/guard grants). The scheme recognises hedges as valuable linear woodlands that connect habitats and protect soil – a win-win for the farm  (shelter for livestock, biosecurity, and carbon storage) and the environment. Farmers often remark that once established, a well-kept hedge is relatively low maintenance and hugely beneficial for stock shelter and field drainage control (snow and wind). The grant helps get over the initial hurdle of planting and establishing it. Woodland Creation (Scotland Forestry Grants) For larger-scale tree planting in Scotland – anything from small farm woodlands to commercial forests – the main program is the Forestry Grant Scheme (FGS) . This scheme, managed by Scottish Forestry, has been the workhorse behind Scotland’s ambitious tree planting targets (the government aims for 18,000 ha of new woodlands per year from 2024/25 onwards). FGS Woodland Creation  grants are a bit more complex in structure than England’s EWCO, but they provide substantial funding. Here’s a summary: Multiple woodland options:  FGS offers nine Woodland Creation options  – essentially different categories of woodland types you can plant, each with its own payment rate per hectare . The main options include: Conifer , Diverse Conifer , Broadleaves , Native Scots Pine , Native Upland Birch , Native Broadleaves (general) , Native Low-Density Broadleaves , Small or Farm Woodland , and a special higher-rate for Northern & Western Isles Native Broadleave s . This might sound overwhelming, but think of it this way: you choose the option that best fits what you want to plant and where. For example, if you plan a mixed broadleaf woodland in the Lowlands, you’d likely go under “Broadleaves”; if you’re a farm in upland Perthshire wanting to plant a mix including Scots pine, you might choose “Native Scots Pine” or “Native Upland Birch” option depending on composition; a smaller 1-hectare plot on a farm might fit “Small or Farm Woodland.” Each option has specific rules about species mix and planting density (ensuring the trees are suitable for the site and objectives). Payment rates:  The grant is paid in a combination of an upfront “initial planting” payment per hectare  and then establishment (maintenance) payments  either annually for 5 years or as two lump sums (at year 3 and 5). There are also potential top-ups  for certain locations (Central Scotland) and higher rates  in defined target areas . Let’s break down a common example to illustrate: For the “Broadleaves”  option (standard case, not in a s pecial target area), the initial planting payment  is £2,880/ha . Then you can choose annual maintenance of £528/ha for five years , which totals £2,640, making a total of £5,520/ha  over the life of the grant . If your woodland is within the Central Scotland Green Network (CSGN) priority area, there’s an additional £1,500/ha  for the first 20 ha , which could boost it to £7,020/ha  for those hectares . In certain high-priority areas (like some National Parks or designated expansion zones), targeted higher rates  apply – e.g. broadleaves could be £3,240 initial and correspondingly higher maintenance (£594/ha/yr), totalling £6,210/ha  (or £7,710 with the extra £1.5k). The idea is higher rates where the government especially wants trees (like parts of the lowlands and sensitive catchments). For Conifer  planting (e.g. Sitka spruce or other conifers for timber), the standard rate is lower: £1,920/ha initial + £208/ha/yr for 5 yrs  = £2,960/ha total (conifers are cheaper to establish and grow faster, so the grant is less). In target preferred areas, conifer rates rise a bit (e.g. ~£3,330/ha total with higher maintenance). If you’re in the Central Scotland uplift zone, add £1.5k/ha for the fi rst 20 ha, bringing conifer up to ~£4,460/ha on those hectares . There’s a “Small or Farm Woodland”  option: this is tailored for smaller woodlands (0.25 ha up to a few hectares) with mixed species. It pays about £2,400 initial + £400/yr  = £4,400/ha total , plus the £1,500/ha top-up if applicable (so up to £5,900/ha). In target areas, it’s a bit higher (around £4,950/ha plus top-up). This option is great for farms that want to plant a modest woodland block – it’s simpler and explicitly allows a conifer-broadleaf mix (except Sitka-heavy mixes are discouraged). Native Low-Density  is an interesting one: only 400–500 trees/ha (more sparse, wood-pasture style). The grant is lower (about £1,040/ha total standard) since you’re planting fewer trees. This suits creating a sparse, parkland or wood pasture habitat where density is low. Agroforestry:  Scotland also has separate agroforestry categories under FGS (distinct from the main woodland options). There are two schemes for planting widely spaced trees on pasture: one for 300–400 trees/ha  and one for 150–200 trees/ha . The payment is £5,400/ha  for the higher density (300–400 trees) and £2,790/ha  for the lower density (150–200 trees). These are one-off grants to establish silvopasture systems (with hardy tree guards since livestock will still graze the area). Notably, these agroforestry grants were boosted by 50% in 2023, reflecting the interest in mixing trees with grazing . If you’re a farmer thinking of putting some trees out in the pastures for shade or diversifying land use without retiring land from grazing, this is a unique opportunity (the contract runs 20 years for agroforestry plantings, and you continue to farm the land with animals/crops among the trees). Maintenance and requirements:  The maintenance payments (either annually or two lump sums) are essential to ensure you tend the new woodland for at least 5 years (checking tree survival, replacing as needed, managing weeds, etc.). By the end of year 5, your trees should be well established. You also get separate capital payments for tree protection: deer fencing  (very important in much of Scotland) is funded, typically at ~£7–12 per metre depending on spec; stock fencing for smaller woods is around £5–£8/m; gates, shelters, etc., all have standard rates as well. The FGS application will include those as needed (so your total grant includes those extras). Scotland requires new woodlands to meet the UK Forestry Standard , and any project above a certain size needs an Environmental Impact Assessment (EIA)  screening. Generally, planting under 0.5 ha  is free of EIA bureaucracy, 0.5–2 ha is usually fine unless on sensitive sites, and >2 ha you must get formal EIA approval unless it’s clearly low-risk . Most farm woodland projects sail through this, but it’s a step to be aware of. Basic Payment Scheme (BPS) integration:  One unique advantage in Scotland is that land planted under FGS continues to be eligible for Basic Payment Scheme payments until 2027  (under current rules). That means if you turn a few hectares of field into woodland, you don’t immediately lose your area-based subsidy on those hectares – a nice incentive. The plan is that even when BPS is replaced, there may be a successor income stream for the remaining years of the 20-year woodland commitment . In short, Scotland tries not to penalise you for taking land out of agriculture for tree planting. Applying for FGS:  Applications are made via the Scottish Rural Payments portal, and you’ll often work with a forestry agent or consultant  (many are registered woodland planners) to draw up a woodland creation plan. In fact, for larger schemes, it’s common (and partially funded by a separate “Woodland Creation Planning Grant”) to hire a professional to ensure your proposal meets all criteria. Don’t let that scare you – for small, simple schemes, many farmers self-apply with some guidance from the local conservancy office of Scottish Forestry. The application asks for details like species percentages, stocking density, fencing map, ground prep methods, etc. Once submitted, it will be scored (there’s a points system – e.g. more points if your woodland contributes to habitat networks or is in a preferred location). Funding is limited by annual budget, but the Scottish Government has been increasing forestry budgets (£53 million for new planting in 2025). If approved, you get a contract and can start planting (usually in the next planting season). Payment for the initial planting is claimed after the work is done and verified (potentially split if it’s a multi-year phased planting). Then you claim the establishment payments at year 3 and 5 or via annual SAF claims, depending on which route you chose . Key Differences in Scotland Overall, Scotland’s grants are a bit more tailored to the type of woodland  – e.g. native conservation woods vs. commercial conifers have different rates. The maximum funding per hectare (for native woods with all bonuses) can be slightly higher than England’s (e.g. a native shelterwood in Scotland can get ~£7k/ha plus regional boost , which is comparable to EWCO’s base £10k plus extras when you factor in Scotland’s additional premium and continued BPS). Scotland also, through its maintenance structure, basically equals about 5 years of care  versus England’s 15 years of maintenance payments – a different approach in timeline. A big plus in Scotland is that you can plant trees and not lose out on your farming subsidies through 2027 , and they actively encourage integration like agroforestry. Just remember, any woodland created will need to be managed long term – if you ever want to fell it, you’ll need a felling license and possibly have to replant (as per forestry regulations). But that’s a future consideration – the grants themselves don’t lock you into anything beyond maintaining the woodland for the agreed duration (typically 20 years in FGS). Scotland also offers grants for woodland improvement and management  (WIG and Sustainable Management of Forests options) for existing woodlands, and a Woodland Restoration  for replanting after pests/disease, etc. Those are beyond our scope here, but as a farmer, you might use those if you have an old shelterbelt that needs replanting or ash trees killed by dieback (there are grants to replant diseased ash with other species, for instance). Always check the Scottish Forestry or Rural Payments site for the latest offerings each year, as scheme rules do evolve. (Scotland summary: AECS will pay ~£5.40/m + £6.00/m (over 5 yrs) to help you plant and maintain new hedges , and the Forestry Grant Scheme provides thousands per hectare (roughly £3k–£7k/ha depending on woodland type) for creating new woodlands , with additional support for fencing, maintenance, and even ongoing BPS on afforested land . The process may involve more planning, but there’s plenty of guidance and a strong push to hit tree planting targets, so worthwhile for those looking to integrate forestry into their farm.) Wales – Woodland Creation Grants and Farming Schemes Wales is undergoing some transitions in its farm support, but as of 2026, there are dedicated grants for planting trees and hedgerows under the Glastir legacy programs  and the evolving National Forest  initiative. The main schemes are the Woodland Creation Grant  (and its smaller cousin, Small Grants – Woodland Creation ), plus periodic environment grants that include hedgerow planting. Here’s how Wales supports farmers in greening their land: Woodland Creation Grants (Wales) Wales introduced specific woodland creation schemes a few years ago to boost tree planting as part of its National Forest plan. These have two scales: Woodland Creation Grant (WCG):  This is for larger projects (generally >0.25 ha and often requiring a Woodland Creation Plan). It runs via an Expression of Interest (EOI) system – farmers apply during an EOI window, then if selected, proceed to a full application with a detailed plan. In 2025, for example, an EOI window opened in March and closed in November , and a new round is set for 2026 (Mar–Nov 2026). The payment rates under WCG were significantly increased in 2023  to make them more attractive. Now, similar to Scotland, Wales has different categories of woodland planting, each with a standard rate per hectare. According to the latest Welsh Government figures (July 2025 update): Native Woodland (for carbon or shelterwood):  up to £6,170/ha  for high-density native woodlands . (Native Shelterwood category at 2,500 trees/ha pays £6,170/ha, which is the top rate for native broadleaf-dominated woodland). Mixed/Conifer Woodlands:  e.g. “Enhanced Mixed Woodland” at 2,500 trees/ha pays £5,146/ha , and “Productive woodfuel/shelter” at 2,500/ha is also £5,146/ha. These cater to mixed planting, including some faster-growing species. Native Biodiversity Woods:  For slightly lower density (1,600 trees/ha or 1,100/ha), rates are £4,550/ha  and £3,302/ha   respectively . These options allow more open space or lower planting density while focusing on native species and wildlife habitat. Special categories:  e.g. Wet Woodland/Streamside  (planting in riparian zones) has the same rates as native (£3,302 at 1,100/ha or £4,550 at 1,600/ha). Coastal  shelterbelts (often using salt-tolerant species) and Orchards (Fruit/Nut)  at ~800 trees/ha are funded at £4,000/ha . There’s also a Red Squirrel  habitat category at 1,600 trees/ha for £4,550/ha (targeted at expanding squirrel-friendly conifer/broadleaf mix in certain areas). Agroforestry-style categories aren’t explicitly separate in Wales’ list, but the Fruit/Nut at 800/ha  could be akin to a traditional orchard or low-density system at £4k/ha. Essentially, you pick the category that fits your plan – the scheme’s standard rates cover the planting and materials. These rates are similar to or slightly above the older Glastir rates and were calibrated after 2023 to ensure full costs are met (as costs for trees and labour rose). Capital extras:  Just like others, the Welsh grant covers fencing and gates  as needed: standard stock fencing is funded at £8.32/m  and deer fencing at £11.93/m . Standard field gates (metal or wood) have set payments (~£220 for metal, ~£290 for softwood, ~£670 for hardwood). So, if your new woodland needs to be fenced off from livestock, you’d include these in your application. Maintenance payments:  Wales provides long-term maintenance funding for new woodlands, similar to England’s concept but structured a bit differently. For WCG, you get 12 years of annual maintenance payments  on a tapering scale: £400/ha in Year 1, £300 in Year 2, £250 in Year 3, then £70/ha each year in Years 4–12 . Add those up and it’s £1,580/ha over 12 years . (For agroforestry or very low density categories, they simplify it to £70/ha/year for 12 years flat). This maintenance pay is intended for weed control, replacing dead trees, etc., through the establishment phase. You must commit to that 12-year maintenance period (the expectation is you keep the woodland healthy). Premium payments (income foregone):  On top of that, Wales uniquely offers a “premium” payment of £350/ha per year for 12 years  for woodlands created on former agricultural land . This is basically compensation for the income you might lose by converting productive farmland to trees. Not every category qualifies (agroforestry and publicly-owned land are excluded), but for typical farm woodland, this premium does  apply. It amounts to an additional £4,200/ha over 12 years . This is a significant incentive – it’s like getting a portion of your old Single Farm Payment for that land for 12 years. It mirrors the approach under the old Glastir scheme, ensuring farmers aren’t out of pocket for doing the right thing environmentally. Combining the planting grant + maintenance + premium, a farmer in Wales could receive well over £10k/ha in support for new native woodlands, very close to (or exceeding) the England offer for comparable projects. Application and planning:  To get a Woodland Creation Grant in Wales, you typically first submit an Expression of Interest (EOI)  in the application window. If your EOI is selected (they often rank them based on how well they meet scheme priorities like connecting to existing woodlands, creating larger blocks, etc.), you then work on a Woodland Creation Plan . Wales has a network of Registered Woodland Planners  – professionals who can design the scheme for you. In fact, there is a Woodland Creation Planning Scheme   that will pay you between £1,000 and £5,000 just to develop a good-quality woodland plan with a planner . This underscores that the government wants well-planned woodlands (considering species choice, site suitability , and bio diversity). For farmers, it means you don’t have to figure it all out alone – you can get expert help largely funded by a grant. The final plan will detail species, planting density, fencing, etc., and must be approved by regulators (Natural Resources Wales, etc.). Once approved, you get the go-ahead to plant and then claim the grants. EOI windows for woodland grants have been popping up regularly. In 2024 and 2025, there were multiple windows (the schedule shows Windows 7, 8, 9 , etc.) each year . In 2026, as per the current timetable, there’s a Small Grants – Woodland Creation window set for Mar–May 2026 , and a WCG main window from Mar–Nov 2026 . So opportunities are frequent. Just be mindful of deadlines and have your plans ready. Small Grants – Woodland Creation:  This is a simpler, scaled-down version intended for smaller woodlands (the cap has been around 2 hectares for these small grants historically). The payment rates under Small Grants are the same  as the main WCG for comparable categories  – the difference is mostly in the process. Small Grants use a streamlined online application with standard planting models. For example, you might choose from a list like “Native Biodiversity 1,600/ha” or “Productive Shelterbelt 2,500/ha”, and the system calculates your grant. It’s less flexible (fewer custom design tweaks than a full plan) but much quicker. Small Grants – Woodland Creation windows have been opening multiple times a year; e.g. one in mid-2025 (July–Sept) and another in early 2026 . If you’re a farmer wanting to plant just a small block or two of trees (say 0.5 ha here, 0.5 ha there), this scheme is ideal – you won’t necessarily need to hire a planner; you can follow the rules of a template plan. The funding covers the same elements (planting, fences, 12-year maintenance, etc.). One thing to note: whether through Small or main WCG, once you have a contract, you’ll typically plant the trees within the first winter and then be in a 12-year agreement to maintain them (and not remove them). The “National Forest” concept in Wales means they’re encouraging linking these new woodlands to form a contiguous network over time – so if your land is in a priority area for that, you might get extra encouragement or quicker approval. Hedgerow Planting in Wales Wales historically supported hedgerows under the Glastir agri-environment scheme. As Glastir is being phased out, interim grants have stepped in. The main opportunity recently has been under the Small Grants – Environment  scheme, which periodically has themed rounds. In 2023, there was a dedicated round for “ Hedgerow Creation”   as part of the environmental small grants . In that round, farmers could apply for funding to plant new hedges (it was capped at 1000 m of hedge per holding, to spread funds around) and likely some standard cost was paid per metre (an example figure often used was around £8-10 per metre of hedge at 80% funding, though the exact rate isn’t published in the snippet we have). Essentially, the government offered to cover a large portion of the costs if you planted a hedge to specified standards (similar to native species and density requirements as elsewhere). That 2023 Hedgerow Creation grant  was quite popular – it helped farmers plug gaps or establish entirely new hedgerows on field boundaries. By 2024, the Small Grants – Environment scheme focused on other themes (like Carbon, Landscape & Pollinators). However, hedgerows remain a priority in Wales for their carbon sequestration and biodiversity value. We expect that in the upcoming Sustainable Farming Scheme (SFS)  – Wales’s new post-Brexit land management scheme slated to start rolling out in 2025/2026 – hedgerow planting and management will feature strongly . SFS is likely to offer payments for maintaining hedgerows in wildlife-friendly ways (like not flailing every year, similar to England’s SFI actions) and for planting new hedges or filling in gaps  as part of a farm’s environmental plan. So, while a specific hedgerow grant window may or may not be open every year, Welsh farmers should keep an eye on SFS developments for a more integrated approach to hedges. In the meantime, if you want to plant hedges in Wales, you could potentially use the Small Grants – Woodland Creation  scheme by selecting the “Native Biodiversity (1,100 trees/ha)” option, but applying it in a narrow strip (a hedge is essentially a line of trees/shrubs). However, the woodland scheme isn’t really designed for long linear features and might have minimum width requirements. It’s probably better to wait for a hedgerow-specific funding opportunity or contact the RPW (Rural Payments Wales) helpline to see what’s available. Also, note that under cross-compliance and Good Agricultural Environmental Conditions, maintaining hedgerows is already expected – and planting new ones voluntarily could give you future advantages under SFS. Wales Application Pointers:  All Welsh rural schemes are handled through RPW Online . The “Rural Schemes: application dates”   page  is very handy – it lists when each scheme’s window is open. As of 2026, you see overlapping windows for Woodland Creation, Small Grants, etc., so planning is key. For woodland grants, if you’re serious, consider using the Woodland Creation Planning Scheme  to get a professional plan drawn up – it’s essentially free consulting since it’s grant-aided . Having a good plan will make the main application smoother and ensure your woodland is well-designed (right tree in the right place!). For hedges or smaller features, monitor the Small Grants – Environment or any new SFS pilot announcements. One more avenue in Wales : the Woodland Investment Grant (WIG) , part of the National Forest programme, has offered funding to enhance or expand woodlands  (including perhaps small-scale planting). It’s more about enhancing existing woodlands and community involvement, but farmers could partner in landscape projects. Also, organisations like the Woodland Trust  work in Wales to provide free trees and hedge packs for schools and communities – farmers sometimes can access those or work with local community groups to plant on farm boundaries. These aren’t “grants” per se to the farmer, but they lower your cost by providing trees. They often meet the required standards (native species, UK sourced, etc.). (Wales summary: Farmers can get roughly £3k–£6k per hectare  for new woodlands (depending on type) plus 12 years of maintenance (£1.58k) and income foregone payments (£4.2k)  – adding up to potentially around £10k/ha for a well-designed native woodland. Small Grant rounds make it feasible even for a 1–2 ha grove. Hedgerow funding has been offered in targeted grant rounds (e.g. up to 1000 m of new hedge funded in 2023) and is expected to be part of the forthcoming Sustainable Farming Scheme. The key is to watch the application calendars and be ready to jump on the opportunities when they arise.)

Why native diversity matters — and how to build a hedge mix that fits BN7 and BN11 Countryside Stewardship rules. When it comes to Countryside Stewardship hedging (BN7 for gapping-up and BN11 for new hedges), inspectors consistently favour mixes that show thought, diversity, and good use of native species . A well-designed planting scheme does more than tick boxes: it strengthens wildlife corridors, supports pollinators, improves soil and shelter, and creates a hedge that will stand for decades. Below is a practical, farmer-friendly guide to the accepted native species , what soils they prefer, and the biodiversity benefits each brings to your BN7 or BN11 hedge. ⭐ Why Inspectors Like Diverse Mixes A mix of species shows that you are: Following DEFRA guidance Creating resilience  (no single pest or disease can take the hedge out) Supporting a range of wildlife , not just one group Building long-term structure , blossom, berries, and seasonal interest Most importantly, it proves your hedge has been planted with environmental value in mind — not just the bare minimum. Accepted Native Hedgerow Species (BN7 & BN11) Below is the recommended species list used in most compliant Countryside Stewardship hedges. For each plant, you get: Best soils and sites Growth habit Wildlife benefits Why inspectors like to see it Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) Soils:  Almost all soils — clay, chalk, loam, sand. Very drought-tolerant. Sites:  Exposed or sheltered. Excellent for tough conditions. Benefits:  Mass spring blossom for pollinators; autumn haws for birds; fast growth; fantastic stock-proof structure. Inspector appeal:  The backbone of any proper British hedge. Reliable establishment and high wildlife value. Blackthorn (Prunus spinosa) Soils:  Prefers heavier soils but adapts well. Sites:  Thrives in exposed, coastal, and windy areas. Benefits:  Early nectar for insects; dense thickets for nesting; sloes for birds and mammals. Inspector appeal:  Adds density and early-season food — great for farmland biodiversity. Field Maple (Acer campestre) Soils:  Performs well on chalk, limestone, and free-draining soils. Sites:  Best in sunny or semi-shaded positions. Benefits:  Vibrant autumn colour; valuable to aphid predators; supports moth species. Inspector appeal:  A good structural species that lifts the overall mix quality. Hazel (Corylus avellana) Soils:  Moist, fertile soils, but extremely adaptable. Sites:  Thrives in both hedges and woodland edges. Benefits:  Catkins for early pollen; nuts for small mammals; excellent coppicing species. Inspector appeal:  A sign of long-term thinking — supports dormice in suitable areas. Dog Rose (Rosa canina) Soils:  Light, well-drained soils preferred. Sites:  Full sun or partial shade. Benefits:  Summer flowers for insects; autumn hips for birds; adds height and scrambling structure. Inspector appeal:  A biodiversity booster. Rose hips are a classic winter food. Spindle (Euonymus europaeus) Soils:  Best on chalk, limestone, or nutrient-poor soils. Sites:  Full sun. Benefits:  Striking pink autumn fruits; supports dozens of moth species. Inspector appeal:  Excellent indicator of a healthy, species-rich hedge. Guelder Rose (Viburnum opulus) Soils:  Prefers moist, fertile soils; tolerates wetter areas. Sites:  Hedge bottoms, wetter margins, lowland areas. Benefits:  Showy blossom; bright red berries for birds; high pollinator value. Inspector appeal:  Great for wetter fields where other species struggle. Bird Cherry (Prunus padus) Soils:  Moist, fertile soils. Sites:  Thrives near waterways, damp hedges, and colder regions. Benefits:  Early flowers, glossy berries, and strong insect support. Inspector appeal:  Shows good species selection for northern or wetter farms. Crab Apple (Malus sylvestris) Soils:  Most soils except waterlogged ground. Sites:  Exposed sites, rough pastures. Benefits:  Blossom for bees; fruits for birds; adds height and longevity. Inspector appeal:  A strong biodiversity and structural species inspectors often praise. Dogwood (Cornus sanguinea) Soils:  Best on chalk and limestone; tolerates dry soils. Sites:  Sunny hedges. Benefits:  Autumn colour; berries for birds; stems provide winter structure. Inspector appeal:  Brilliant for visual diversity and winter habitat. Wild Privet (Ligustrum vulgare) Soils:  Chalky, limestone-rich, or dry soils. Sites:  Sunny, sheltered spots. Benefits:  Flowers packed with nectar; black berries for birds. Inspector appeal:  A wildlife-friendly “filler” species for dry sites. Holly (Ilex aquifolium) Soils:  Acidic to neutral soils; avoids waterlogged ground. Sites:  Shady hedgerows, woodland edge. Benefits:  Evergreen shelter; berries for thrushes; winter cover for livestock. Inspector appeal:  Evergreen structure is highly valued in stewardship hedges. Buckthorn (Rhamnus cathartica) Soils:  Chalk, limestone, and well-drained soils. Sites:  Sunny positions. Benefits:  Essential host plant for Brimstone butterflies; berries feed birds. Inspector appeal:  Adding buckthorn signals clear biodiversity intent. Alder Buckthorn (Frangula alnus) Soils:  Moist, acidic soils; great for damp ground. Sites:  Stream edges, wetter hedges. Benefits:  Nectar-rich flowers; berries for birds; supports rare species. Inspector appeal:  Excellent option for wet or shaded field boundaries. Wayfaring Tree (Viburnum lantana) Soils:  Chalk and limestone are ideal. Sites:  Sunny, dry areas. Benefits:  White blossom; red-to-black berries; strong for pollinators. Inspector appeal:  A hardy shrub that thrives where others fail. Rowan (Sorbus aucuparia) Soils:  Most soils, including acidic upland soils. Sites:  Exposed, windy locations. Benefits:  Heavy berry crops; supports thrushes, blackbirds, and pollinators. Inspector appeal:  Great choice for upland or windy farms. ✅ How to Build a Mix Inspectors Will Approve A good BN7 or BN11 hedge typically includes: 60–70% core species  (Hawthorn & Blackthorn) 30–40% diversity species  (Spindle, Hazel, Dog Rose, Maple, etc.) This shows: Proper adherence to rules A thoughtful planting scheme Clear biodiversity value Our BN7 and BN11 hedge packs are pre-designed to meet these ratios. 🛠️ Need a Ready-Made Scheme? We can produce: BN7 (gapping-up) hedge packs BN11 (new hedges) packs Custom species mixes based on soil or inspector feedback Planting plans and species percentage sheets

Welcome! If you’re a farmer in the UK looking to improve or expand your hedgerows, and you farm in the UK and want to improve or expand your hedgerows, the BN7: Hedgerow Gapping-Up and BN11: Planting New Hedges options under Countryside Stewardship in England can provide you with the support. This guide explains in plain English: What BN7 and BN11 are The difference between “gapping up” and planting a brand-new hedge Payment rates and typical costs Who can apply in England, and what the equivalents are in Wales and Scotland Practical planting and aftercare advice Answers to common questions from farmers Whether you are filling gaps in old hedges or putting in new hedges for shelter, wildlife and soil protection, this guide will help you plan a successful, grant-compliant project. 1. What Are BN7 and BN11 Hedgerow Grants? BN7 and BN11 are “capital items” under the Countryside Stewardship scheme in England. They pay you per metre of hedgerow planting. BN7 – Hedgerow Gapping-Up Used to fill gaps in an existing hedge line Strengthens thin, broken or patchy hedges Helps make hedges stock-proof and better for wildlife Typical rule: gaps up to 20 metres long are treated as “gaps” Payment (England):  around £10.98 per metre BN11 – Planting New Hedges Used to create a completely new hedgerow where there is no hedge now Also used where a gap is so long that you are effectively creating a new hedge line Always planted as a native hedge in a double staggered row Payment (England):  around £22.97 per metre 100 metres of BN11 hedging would provide roughly £2,297  in grant funding. BN7 = repair and fill gaps. BN11 = plant a new hedge from scratch. “BN” stands for “Boundary” in the Countryside Stewardship code system. 2. Why Plant or Restore Hedges? BN7 and BN11 are not just about the money. Well-planted, well-managed hedges bring long-term benefits to the farm. Wildlife and pollinators Hedges act as wildlife corridors , allowing birds, insects and small mammals to move safely across the farm. Blossoms from hawthorn, blackthorn and native trees feed pollinators in spring. Autumn berries and nuts feed birds and small mammals. Continuous, well-connected hedges support many farmland bird species. Shelter for livestock A dense hedge gives wind protection  in winter and shade  in summer. Reduces stress and improves welfare for cattle, sheep and horses. BN7 can restore thin shelterbelts; BN11 can create new ones. Soil, water and flooding Hedges help slow run-off  and reduce soil erosion on slopes. Roots help hold soil in place. Sediment and nutrients are filtered before reaching ditches and streams, which supports better water quality  and can reduce the risk of flooding. Carbon and air quality Hedgerows store carbon in their wood and roots. Hedges near livestock areas can help trap dust and ammonia, improving air quality around yards and tracks. Landscape and farm legacy Hedges give structure to fields and help maintain traditional boundaries. Restoring old hedgerows or reinstating historical hedges maintains the character of the farmed landscape. A well-planted hedge is an asset that can last generations. 3. Payment Rates and Typical Costs One of the first questions is normally: “Will the grant cover my costs?” As of early 2025, the headline rates in England are: BN7 – Hedgerow Gapping-Up:  about £10.98 per metre BN11 – Planting New Hedges:  about £22.97 per metre Always check the latest rates on GOV.UK, as schemes and payments may change. BN11 – Typical costs for a new hedge A new hedge uses more plants and materials, so costs are higher per metre. A compliant BN11 hedge usually has 6 plants per metre  in two staggered rows . Typical ball-park figures per metre: Plants:  £5–£7 Native hedge packs (hawthorn, blackthorn, hazel, field maple, dog rose and similar) Guards, canes, mulch , etc:  £5–£7 Rabbit guards Canes Mulch mats/fabric and fixing pegs (if used) Labour:  £5–£10 Depends on whether you plant yourself or use a contractor Most farms find that a BN11 payment of £22.97 per metre will cover planting costs and often leave a small surplus , especially when plants are bought in bulk. BN7 – Typical costs for gapping-up BN7 uses fewer plants per metre because you are filling holes in an existing hedge, not starting from bare ground. Typical costs per metre of gap: Plants:  £2–£4 (around 2–4 whips per metre) Guards and canes:  £2–£4 (if needed) Labour:  £2–£6 With a BN7 payment of about £10.98 per metre , most farmers find: Plant and guard costs are fully covered There is usually something left towards labour Fencing and site factors Fencing is not included  in BN7 or BN11 payments. Stock fencing might cost £3–£10 per metre , depending on specification. Some separate grants may cover fencing. Steep slopes, stones and heavy weeds increase labour time. Large hedge orders reduce plant cost per metre. Bottom line:  both BN7 and BN11 are designed to be at least cost-neutral and often financially favourable once established. 4. Who Can Apply? England, Wales and Scotland Information here is correct to the best of current knowledge in early 2025. Always check the latest official guidance before you apply. England – BN7 and BN11 under Countryside Stewardship In England, most: Farmers Landowners Tenants and smallholders Other land managers can apply for BN7 and BN11 as part of: Mid Tier or Higher Tier agreements, or Standalone capital grants (availability can change year by year) You do not have to be a full-time farmer , but you must have management control of the land , including both sides of the hedge line. When to use BN11 vs BN7 in England Use BN11 – Planting New Hedges – when: There is currently no hedge , or A gap is so long that you are effectively creating a new hedgerow. Typical BN11 purposes include: Reinstating old hedges shown on historic maps Linking two existing hedges or woods Creating wildlife corridors Reducing erosion or run-off on slopes Creating shelter near farmyards or tracks BN11 is not for small gaps.  Gaps of 20 metres or less  belong under BN7. Use BN7 – Hedgerow Gapping-Up – when: The hedge exists but has bare patches or thin stretches Gaps are typically up to 20 metres You want to strengthen the structure of an existing hedgerow You are restoring an old hedge that is mostly still in place BN7 is not for planting a completely new hedge line . Evidence and mapping (England) For both BN7 and BN11 you must: Map the proposed hedge line in the Rural Payments system Show the location and length Keep before and after photos Keep receipts for plants and materials The planting window is from 1 November to 31 March   Applications are made through the Rural Payments Service (RPA) . The basic steps are: Map the hedge line Submit the application Wait for approval Plant the hedge in the correct season Submit evidence and claim payment Payments are made after  the work is completed and approved. Wales – Small Grants, not BN7 or BN11 Wales has its own hedgerow creation grants, for example: Glastir Small Grants (Environment) New schemes under the Sustainable Farming Scheme (SFS) Typical features: Applications are made through Rural Payments Wales (RPW) Short application windows, sometimes once a year Competitive, scored applications Past hedge planting rates have been lower than in England, for example, around £4.50 per metre Often includes support for fencing, gates and guards Maximum grant caps, such as £7,500, may apply Wales does not use BN codes , and rules change regularly, so check the current RPW guidance. Scotland – AECS and Forestry Grant Scheme In Scotland, hedge planting is mainly supported via: Agri-Environment Climate Scheme (AECS) Forestry Grant Scheme and occasional biodiversity or climate funds Key points: Application rounds open periodically, not all year round Past hedge planting payments have been around £5.40 per metre Extra items may cover fencing, hedgerow trees and shelterbelts Applications usually need maps, plans and environmental justification Scotland also does not use BN codes , so refer to Scottish Rural Payments and NatureScot for up-to-date details. 5. Planting Your BN7 or BN11 Hedge: Step-by-Step Once your grant is approved, the next job is to get the hedge planted correctly. Planting season Allowed period:  1 November to 31 March Plant while whips are dormant Avoid frozen or waterlogged ground On light or sandy soils , November and December often work best. On heavy or wet clays , February and March may be better, once the ground is workable. Step 1: Prepare the site Clear a 1.5 metre strip  along the hedge line Strim and remove vegetation Lightly cultivate, or Use herbicide in late summer if you choose (always follow scheme rules and label advice) Improve soil where needed Break up compacted ground Remove large stones and rubbish Aim for friable, crumbly soil so roots can get away easily Mark out the line Use stakes, string, spray marker or a clear tractor wheel mark Decide whether the hedge will be straight or gently curved Step 2: Row layout and spacing BN11 – New hedges Two rows , 40 cm apart 6 plants per metre  in total BN7 – Gapping-up Plant into the existing hedge line Use around 2–4 plants per metre  in the gaps Follow the spacing and pattern of the existing hedge, single or double row as appropriate Step 3: Planting the whips For bare-root whips (standard for BN7 and BN11): Use a spade, planting bar or dibber Make a slit or small hole large enough for roots to hang naturally Plant at the same depth as in the nursery  (look for the soil mark on the stem) Firm soil around the roots with your heel to remove air pockets Check spacing as you go so the hedge looks even and continuous Keep roots moist at all times. Only take a small bundle out of the bag at once and cover the rest. 6. Protection and Aftercare Guards, mulch and fencing Guards and canes Useful where rabbits and hares are present Spiral guards or small shelters help improve survival Remove guards after 2–3 years so they do not constrict stems or litter the hedge line Mulch or weed fabric Not compulsory but very effective Reduces weed competition and keeps moisture in the soil Fencing Essential if livestock graze nearby Place fencing at least 1.2 metres from the centre  of the hedge to give room for growth and to avoid browsing Young hedges will usually fail if sheep or cattle can reach them Weed control and watering For the first one to two years : Keep roughly a 1 metre strip weed-free  along the hedge Hand-weed, hoe, use a guarded spot-spray or weed-wiper where allowed Avoid strimmers close to young stems, especially blackthorn, which may sucker when damaged Water in prolonged dry spells, particularly in the first summer Replacing failures Even with good planting, some plants will die. Under BN7 and BN11, you are expected to: Check hedges in summer Mark missing plants Replace failures the next winter (Nov–Mar) Keeping a full, continuous hedge protects your grant and improves the long-term structure. Early trimming and long-term management Light trimming after the first and second growing seasons encourages bushy growth at the base Aim for a hedge that is wider at the bottom  than the top After several years, manage as a normal hedge with rotational trimming, and eventually laying or coppicing if needed (often with separate grants for that work) Record-keeping Keep: Planting dates Before and after photos Maps showing the hedge location Receipts for plants and materials These records are useful if you are inspected and helpful for your own management planning. 7. Choosing Native Species and Working Out Plant Numbers For BN11 in England, all species must be UK native , and the mix must reflect your local landscape. Common native hedge species include: Hawthorn (quickthorn) Blackthorn Hazel Field maple Dogwood Dog rose Holly Spindle Guelder rose Crab apple No single species can make up more than 70%  of the mix. This avoids monocultures and improves pest, disease and climate resilience. Example BN11-compliant mixes Thorny, stock-proof mix 70% hawthorn 30% blackthorn Wildlife-rich mix 50% hawthorn 20% blackthorn 10% hazel 10% field maple 10% dog rose Mixed native hedge 40% hawthorn 20% blackthorn 20% hazel 10% crab apple 5% dogwood 5% holly You can tweak mixes for your soils: Coastal or exposed sites  – more blackthorn and other tough species Wet ground  – add suitable wet-tolerant natives Light, dry soils  – hawthorn, dogwood and field maple usually do well How many plants do you need? For BN11: Number of plants = hedge length (metres) × 6 Examples: 100 metre hedge = 600 plants 150 metre hedge = 900 plants Order 5–10% extra  to cover losses and replacements. BN11 requires bare-root whips around 45–60 cm tall , usually 2-year-old nursery plants. 8. Quick Project Checklist Here is a simple summary you can use: Planning Measure hedge length Decide whether it is BN7 (gap filling) or BN11 (new hedge) Confirm you control both sides of the boundary, or get the neighbour’s written consent Application Map the hedge line in the Rural Payments system Complete your BN7 or BN11 application or capital grant request Wait for written approval before you spend money Ordering and preparation Order native hedge whips, guards, canes and any mulch Clear a 1.5 m strip along the hedge line Lightly cultivate and mark out the rows Planting (Nov–Mar) Plant in a double staggered row for BN11 (6 plants per metre) Gap up existing hedges sensibly under BN7 Firm plants in well and protect roots from drying Protection and aftercare Install guards and fencing where required Keep weeds down and water in dry spells Replace any failures the next winter Claiming your grant (England) Take photos and keep invoices Submit your claim after the work is complete Keep evidence in case of inspection 9. Frequently Asked Questions Do I need to be a full-time farmer to apply? No. Any land manager in England with management control of the land  can apply, including tenants (with landlord consent) and smallholders. The key requirement is that you control both sides of the hedge line or have a formal agreement with your neighbour. Can I plant a BN11 hedge on a boundary with my neighbour? Yes, but only if: You have your neighbour’s written agreement, or The hedge is clearly within your own boundary and fully under your control. If there is any doubt, it is often easier to plant just inside your boundary on your side of the fence to avoid future disputes. Is there a minimum hedge length for BN11? There is no widely stated strict minimum length. However, very short lengths may not be worth the paperwork on their own. Many farmers choose to include hedge planting as part of a wider Countryside Stewardship application or combine several stretches to make it more worthwhile. When do I get paid? In England, BN7 and BN11 payments are made after the work is completed  and your claim is processed. You must: Plant the hedge Take photos and keep receipts Submit a claim through the Rural Payments system Processing times vary, so you should be ready to cover plants and labour costs up front until payment arrives. What happens if some plants die? You are expected to replant any failures  in the next planting season. A few dead plants will not normally cause a problem as long as you fill the gaps and the hedge ends up continuous and dense. Many suppliers offer a short guarantee on hedge plants, so it is worth checking. Can I use plastic guards and shelters? Yes, individual guards, spiral shelters and similar products are allowed and are often recommended where rabbits or hares are present. However: You should remove guards once plants are established Consider biodegradable options where possible Fencing is usually more important than guards, where livestock are the main risk How does BN11 link to long-term hedge management schemes? Think of BN11  as the creation stage : BN11 pays you to plant the hedge Later, you may be able to enter the hedge into management actions, such as: Countryside Stewardship hedgerow management options Sustainable Farming Incentive hedgerow actions These can provide annual payments  for maintaining hedges in a wildlife-friendly way, for example by cutting less often and outside the bird nesting season 10. Final Thoughts and Next Steps Planting and restoring hedges is one of the most practical ways to deliver environmental, livestock and landscape benefits  on your farm. With BN7 and BN11, you can often do this in a cost-neutral way while strengthening your long-term infrastructure. Before you start: Check the latest Countryside Stewardship or SFI guidance  on GOV.UK Talk to your adviser or local environmental officer if you are unsure which option fits your fields Plan your hedge in good time so plants arrive early in the planting season If you would like help choosing species mixes, calculating plant numbers or planning a BN7 or BN11 application, get in touch with your usual adviser or supplier. With the right planning and a bit of winter work, you can create hedges that protect your stock, support wildlife and leave a lasting legacy across your farm. Happy hedging – and remember to keep your photos and paperwork safe for the claim.

Table of Contents What Is a Rowan Tree? Benefits of Growing Rowan Trees Choosing the Right Rowan Tree for Your Garden Planting and Caring for Rowan Trees Rowan Trees and Wildlife Pruning and Maintenance Tips Growing Rowan Trees in Pots or Containers Rowan Tree Folklore and History Summary FAQs A mature Rowan tree in full berry, standing proudly against a backdrop of forested hills — a vibrant haven for birds and pollinators in the British countryside." Rowan trees  — also known by their botanical name Sorbus aucuparia  or more familiarly as Mountain Ash  — are among the most cherished and culturally significant trees found across the British landscape. Admired for their light, airy canopy, frothy clusters of creamy-white spring flowers , and vibrant berries that glow in shades of red, orange, yellow, or pink through autumn, Rowan trees offer striking seasonal interest and enduring elegance. Their natural grace and relatively compact size make them an ideal choice for a wide range of settings, from traditional cottage gardens to modern courtyards, wildlife-friendly smallholdings, and even large rural estates. But the appeal of Rowan trees goes far beyond their good looks. As a native species, Rowan trees are deeply rooted in the UK's ecological fabric and cultural history. They support a rich variety of wildlife — providing nectar for pollinators in spring, berries for birds like blackbirds and waxwings in autumn and winter, and shelter for insects throughout the year. They're also famously low-maintenance, resilient, and adaptable to most soil types, making them a favourite for gardeners seeking both beauty and biodiversity. And then there’s the folklore. Known for centuries as the "Witch Tree" , Rowan has long been associated with protection, magic, and ancient tradition. Planted near doorways or gates, it was believed to ward off evil spirits and bring good fortune, and its five-pointed star-shaped berry markings only deepened its mystical reputation. In this complete guide to Rowan trees in the UK , we’ll explore everything you need to know about choosing, growing, and enjoying Mountain Ash  in your own space. Whether you’re selecting a variety for a small garden , planting for wildlife , looking to grow Rowan in a container, or curious about its cultural history, this blog covers it all — including expert planting advice, pruning tips, and recommended varieties tailored to British conditions. What Is a Rowan Tree ? Rowan trees , known botanically as Sorbus aucuparia , are deciduous trees native to much of Europe, including the British Isles. Recognised for their graceful form, feather-like foliage, creamy spring flowers, and brilliant clusters of berries in late summer and autumn, they have long been cherished in both ornamental and wild planting schemes. Although commonly called “Mountain Ash” , Rowan trees are not closely related to true Ash trees ( Fraxinus  species). The name arises from the similar appearance of their pinnate (feather-like) leaves , which are made up of multiple leaflets arranged on either side of a central stem. Botanical Profile Latin name:   Sorbus aucuparia Common names:  Rowan, Mountain Ash, Witch Tree Family:   Rosaceae (same as apples and roses) Height range:  Typically between 2m and 12m  at maturity, depending on cultivar Lifespan:  Can live 80 to 100+ years  in good conditions with minimal care Rowan trees are often found growing at the edge of woodlands, in hedgerows, or high on windswept hillsides — hence the association with mountains. Their adaptability, beauty, and usefulness have made them a firm favourite for gardeners, landowners, and conservationists  alike. Quick Fact:  Rowan berries are not only highly attractive to birds — they can also be used to make jellies, wines, and even country cordials , though they should always be cooked first to remove bitterness. Benefits of Growing Rowan Trees Rowan trees offer more than just visual beauty — they’re a practical, low-maintenance addition to almost any British garden or landscape. Whether you’re looking to attract more wildlife, create year-round seasonal interest, or find the perfect tree for a compact plot, Rowan ticks all the boxes. Why Choose a Rowan Tree? Seasonal Interest:  From creamy white flower clusters in spring to lush green foliage in summer and brilliant berries in autumn, Rowans offer something to enjoy throughout the year. Wildlife Appeal:  Rowan berries are a vital winter food source for birds like blackbirds, thrushes, and waxwings, while their spring blossom supports bees, hoverflies, and other pollinators. Low Maintenance:  Once established, Rowan trees are drought-tolerant, disease-resistant, and adaptable to most soil types, making them ideal for busy gardeners or larger planting schemes. Compact Options Available:  Many Rowan cultivars are suitable for smaller gardens or container growing, so you don’t need a large space to enjoy their charm. Top Tip:  Looking for a tree that thrives in a modest plot? Explore our blog on Top 5 Rowan Trees for Small British Gardens  for inspiration. Choosing the Right Rowan Tree for Your Garden With a wide variety of species and cultivars available, selecting the right Rowan tree depends on your available space, garden style, soil conditions, and aesthetic preferences. From tall native species to compact patio-friendly varieties, there’s a Rowan to suit every setting. Rowan Tree Variety Comparison Variety Height at Maturity Berry Colour Best Suited For Sorbus 'Joseph Rock' Up to 6m Yellow Colour contrast in mid-sized gardens Sorbus aucuparia 8–12m Red Traditional look in large rural gardens Sorbus 'Autumn Spire' Around 3m Orange Slim borders, small gardens, and containers Sorbus 'Eastern Promise' 4m Soft pink Pollinator planting and visual impact Sorbus reducta 1–1.5m Red Patios, courtyards, and compact pots Top Tip:  For maximum visual impact, pair your Rowan’s berry colour with autumn foliage hues and nearby planting schemes. Joseph Rock’s  golden berries, for example, contrast beautifully with purple-leaved shrubs or ornamental grasses. Compare compact options in our blog: Top 5 Rowan Trees for Small British Gardens Planting and Caring for Rowan Trees Choosing the right time and location to plant your Rowan tree is key to giving it the best start. Fortunately, Rowan trees are hardy, low-maintenance, and adaptable  — but following a few simple guidelines will help ensure your tree establishes quickly and thrives for years to come. Planting Steps Planting a Rowan tree is straightforward, but good preparation makes all the difference. Here’s a step-by-step guide: Dig a hole  at least twice the width of the root ball and roughly the same depth. This gives the roots space to spread. Loosen the surrounding soil  with a fork and mix in well-rotted compost or organic matter to improve structure and drainage. Position the tree  so the top of the root ball sits level with the surrounding soil surface. Avoid planting too deep. Backfill the hole  with enriched soil, gently firming it around the roots to eliminate air pockets. Water thoroughly  after planting to help settle the soil. Stake the tree  if it’s tall or exposed to strong winds. Use a soft tie and remove the stake after 1–2 years once the roots are well established. Expert Insight:  Rowan trees are incredibly resilient but will establish faster when watered consistently during their first few growing seasons — especially in dry weather. Rowan Trees and Wildlife Rowan trees are among the most wildlife-friendly trees in the UK , making them an excellent choice for gardeners and landowners looking to support biodiversity. In spring, their delicate, creamy-white flowers provide a valuable nectar source for bees, hoverflies, and other essential pollinators. As summer turns to autumn, the tree becomes laden with clusters of bright berries — a vital food supply that attracts a wide variety of birds, including blackbirds , thrushes , fieldfares , and the occasional migrating waxwing . By offering shelter, nourishment, and seasonal interest, Rowan trees play a vital role in supporting native ecosystems, even in urban gardens or smallholdings. Their wildlife value is just one of the many reasons they remain a top pick for nature-conscious planting schemes. Stat:  According to the Woodland Trust, Rowan trees support over 60 insect species. Explore more benefits in our blog: Why Rowan Trees Are a Magnet for Birds and Wildlife Pruning and Maintenance Tips Rowan trees are naturally neat and well-structured, often requiring very little intervention to maintain their shape. However, like all trees, they benefit from a little attention to ensure healthy growth, remove any damaged wood, and keep their canopy open and airy. When and How to Prune Rowan Trees Pruning should be kept minimal and purposeful , typically carried out during the dormant season , from late autumn to mid-winter (November–February) . Here’s what to focus on: Remove any dead, diseased, or damaged wood  to improve tree health and reduce the risk of infection. Thin out crossing branches  that rub together, as this can lead to bark damage and disease entry points. Avoid heavy pruning , especially removing large limbs, as this can stress the tree and trigger unwanted suckering  (vigorous shoots from the base). Always use sharp, clean tools  and prune on a dry day to reduce the risk of fungal spread and to make clean cuts. Top Tip:  Rowan trees retain a naturally balanced shape. In most cases, light maintenance every couple of years is all that’s needed to keep them looking their best. Full pruning guide: Do Rowan Trees Need Pruning? (And When to Do It) Growing Rowan Trees in Pots or Containers If you're short on space but still want to enjoy the beauty and wildlife benefits of a Rowan, you're in luck — many Rowan tree varieties are well-suited to container growing . With the right set-up and a little extra care, these versatile trees can thrive on patios , balconies, and courtyards for many years. Getting Started with Potted Rowans Not all Rowan varieties are ideal for pots. For best results, choose compact, slow-growing , or columnar cultivars  that won’t outgrow their containers too quickly. Excellent choices for pot culture include: Sorbus reducta  – a true dwarf shrub, ideal for terraces and tight spaces Sorbus 'Autumn Spire'  – narrow and upright, great for architectural impact Sorbus 'Eastern Promise'  – compact with soft pink berries and great pollinator value You can find detailed comparisons of these cultivars in Top 5 Rowan Trees for Small British Gardens . Rowan Tree Folklore and History Few trees in the British Isles are as steeped in myth and magic as the Rowan. Often referred to as the “Witch Tree” , this elegant species has been a symbol of protection and spiritual significance for centuries . From ancient Norse legends to Highland superstitions, Rowan’s place in folklore is as colourful as its autumn berries. A Tree of Protection In Celtic and Druid traditions, Rowan trees were believed to ward off evil spirits  and offer magical protection. They were commonly planted near doorways, gates, and barns to shield homes and livestock from harm. People would also carry Rowan sprigs or make protective charms from its wood, especially during festivals and seasonal transitions. The Rowan’s vibrant red berries , each marked by a tiny five-pointed “star” at the base, were seen as a sacred symbol — linked to the pentagram , which was thought to repel negative energies. Quick Fact:  In Scottish folklore, it was considered extremely unlucky to cut down a Rowan tree , as doing so could remove the spiritual protection from the land or home it guarded. Connections Across Cultures The Rowan’s mystical reputation wasn’t limited to Britain: Norse mythology  described the Rowan as the tree that saved the god Thor from a river, pulling him to safety. Celtic cultures  saw the Rowan as a guardian tree, often found near stone circles and burial mounds . In Christian folklore , the Rowan was believed to offer divine protection, leading to its planting in churchyards and sacred spaces. Expert Insight:  The Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh lists Rowan as one of the most culturally significant trees in Scotland’s plant heritage. To explore its magical history in more depth, read Rowan Tree Folklore & Why It Was Once Called the 'Witch Tree' Rowan trees are one of the UK’s most enchanting and practical additions to any garden. Whether you’re choosing a tree for wildlife, colour, folklore, or simply because you love their elegant form, there's a Rowan to suit every space. From compact container trees  to wildlife favourites  and low-maintenance choices , Rowan trees offer year-round interest and deep cultural charm. FAQs Can Rowan trees grow in clay or poor soil? Yes, Rowan trees tolerate a range of soils but prefer well-drained ground. Adding organic matter helps improve clay soil performance. Are Rowan berries poisonous? Rowan berries are not toxic to birds. For humans, they should be cooked before use as raw berries may cause stomach upset. When is the best time to plant a Rowan tree? Late autumn to early spring, when the tree is dormant and conditions are cool and moist. Can Rowan trees be planted near houses? Yes — they have non-invasive roots and make excellent ornamental front garden trees. Do I need more than one Rowan tree for berries? No. Rowan trees are self-fertile, so a single tree will still produce berries.

When the grass has given up, gateways are a write-off and everyone’s a bit fed up of bale rings, winter feeding can start to feel like damage limitation rather than good stockmanship. One low-tech, high-science option that’s getting serious attention is feeding willow (Salix viminalis)  as a supplement alongside the usual forage and concentrates – especially for pregnant ewes, cattle, goats, horses and even poultry . Tree fodder isn’t a new idea, but we’re finally getting the research to back up what stock have been telling us for years: they love  browsing, and it can be good for them too. ( Woodland Trust ) Below we’ll look at the benefits of willow for wintering livestock and how you can use coppiced willow on your own farm. Willow Catkins What’s special about willow (Salix viminalis)? Fast-growing willows like Salix viminalis  (often used in short-rotation coppice) produce a lot of leafy, twiggy biomass with a nutritional value surprisingly close to decent grass forage. Trials with sheep, goats and deer found that osier willow (S. viminalis)  was highly digestible and readily eaten , with intakes comparable to conventional forages. ( Cambridge University Press & Assessment ) Analyses of tree fodder leaves show: ( ScienceDirect ) Useful protein levels  – handy in late pregnancy and early lactation. Good fibre  – helping keep the rumen working and animals content. Vitamins A, C and E  – supporting immunity and general health. Macro and trace minerals  – including calcium, magnesium and others important for bone, muscle and metabolic health. In other words, willow isn’t just “a bit of roughage” – it’s a genuine forage, and a useful extra mouthful in the winter ration . Condensed tannins: tiny compounds, big benefits One of willow’s “secret weapons” is its content of condensed tannins (CTs) . These plant compounds have a mixed reputation, but at the right levels they’re incredibly useful. Research on willow and other tannin-rich forages shows that: ( BioMed Central ) CTs can bind to dietary protein in the rumen , stopping it being broken down too quickly. More of that protein then passes into the small intestine, where the animal can actually use it for growth, milk and colostrum , rather than blowing it off as ammonia. Moderate tannin intake (around up to 5% of dry matter ) can improve liveweight gain, wool production and reproductive performance , and reduce the impact of gut worms  in sheep and other ruminants. Too much tannin can depress intake and reduce digestibility – so we’re talking supplement  rather than “feed nothing but willow and hope for the best”. ( The Organic Research Centre ) Natural backup for worm control Internal parasites remain one of the biggest losses in sheep and youngstock, and drench resistance is now a fact of life on many farms. Researchers have been exploring willow as part of a more sustainable worm-control strategy. Several studies have found that feeding willow to lambs and young sheep: ( ScienceDirect ) Reduces gastrointestinal nematode burdens , especially species like Haemonchus contortus  and Teladorsagia circumcincta . Halves total daily egg output  in some trials, compared to control diets. Lowers worm fecundity  (eggs per worm), making contamination of pasture slower. Work with goats using willow extracts or protected fats (calcium soaps) has shown similar reductions in nematode load  alongside normal nutrient intake and rumen function. ( SpringerLink ) Willow isn’t a replacement for your vet-designed parasite plan, but it can support it  – especially useful: When pregnant ewes  are under pressure in late gestation. For grazing lambs and youngstock  in the high-risk season. Where you’re trying to slow resistance  by reducing drench frequency. A bit of built-in pain relief Willow bark famously gave us salicin , the natural precursor of aspirin, and willow foliage is rich in salicylic compounds . ( Innovative Farmers ) We’re not talking about DIY veterinary medicine here, but tree-fodder factsheets note that browsing small amounts of willow can provide mild anti-inflammatory and pain-relief effects , and may help animals cope with minor aches, knocks and inflammatory processes as part of routine life. Again, this is a support , not a substitute for proper treatment – but it’s a nice additional string to willow’s bow. Species-by-species: who benefits, and how? Sheep – especially pregnant ewes and young lambs For sheep, willow ticks several boxes: Extra protein and minerals  in late pregnancy and early lactation, when demand is highest. ( ScienceDirect ) Condensed tannins  that can improve protein use and reduce worm impact by up to ~50%  when included at sensible levels. ( The Organic Research Centre ) Behavioural benefits  – browsing is a natural behaviour; animals are typically calmer and more settled around living or fresh-cut browse. ( Woodland Trust ) Practical ideas: Offer cut willow bundles  in troughs or along a fence in late gestation and through early lactation. Use coppiced willow blocks  as a “browse break” when ewes are coming off poor leys or rough ground. With twins/triplets, willow can be a nice way to lift the ration slightly  without overdoing concentrates. Cattle Trials with beef cattle grazing willow showed: ( docs.eaap.org ) Similar total dry-matter intake  from willow versus good grass when offered ad lib. Lower liveweight gain  compared with top-quality grass (so willow is a supplement, not a magic rocket-fuel forage). Methane emissions per day reduced by up to 27% , thanks to tannins altering rumen fermentation, without increasing methane per kg liveweight gain. For store cattle and suckler cows, willow browse can: Add feed diversity  during the winter. Provide shelter and shade  when planted in alley or shelterbelt systems. ( Woodland Trust ) Goats and deer Sheep’s more agile cousins are natural browsers and often go for willow first. Studies measuring intake and digestibility found high voluntary intake and good utilisation  of S. viminalis and related willows by goats and deer. ( Cambridge University Press & Assessment ) For mixed grazing systems, willow blocks can be a very efficient way to keep goats and deer occupied and well-fed over winter. Horses Evidence in horses is more traditional and practical than trial-based, but: Many horses readily eat willow leaves and twigs , especially when turnout is limited. It offers chew time and interest , which may help with stable boredom. The natural salicylates are again thought to have mild soothing effects . ( Innovative Farmers ) However: Keep an eye on overall sugar and starch in the diet  for laminitis-prone animals – don’t assume “tree” automatically means low NSC. Introduce slowly and in moderation, and discuss any regular use with your vet, particularly if the horse is on medication. Poultry Chickens won’t live on willow leaves alone (and shouldn’t), but in tree-rich poultry ranges  they’ll: ( Woodland Trust ) Use willow for shade, shelter and wind protection  in rough weather. Peck at leaves, bark and the invertebrates living on and under them. Show more natural foraging and exploratory behaviour , which reduces feather-pecking and boredom. In practice, the main benefit for poultry is welfare and microclimate , with any leaf intake a small nutritional bonus. Pigs Although pigs are classic rooters rather than browsers, many will happily chew willow branches when offered — especially younger stock or traditional breeds with a stronger foraging instinct. Benefits for pigs include: Enrichment and behaviour:  Willow branches provide chew-time, occupation and stress reduction. This is especially valuable for pigs kept indoors over winter or during wet periods when outdoor rooting is limited. Trace nutrients & roughage:  While pigs won’t consume willow in the same quantities as ruminants, the leaves and thin twigs add small amounts of fibre, minerals and vitamins. Tooth and tusk wear:  Regular chewing can help maintain tooth health and reduce excessive tusk growth in boars. Natural anti-inflammatory compounds:  The salicylates in willow may offer mild soothing effects, though not at medicinal levels. Practical notes: Offer bundles of willow branches as occupational enrichment , not a feed replacement. Avoid large, hard stems for small pigs. Remove heavily fouled branches to maintain hygiene. Make sure pigs still receive a balanced ration — willow is a behavioural bonus rather than nutrition-heavy feed. Llamas & Alpacas (Camelids) Camelids are natural browsers and often seek out shrubs, young trees and leaves — which makes willow a welcome winter addition. Benefits for llamas and alpacas: Highly palatable browse:  They will readily strip leaves and tender bark from willow rods. Fibre for gut health:  Additional roughage supports a steady digestive system, especially useful in winter when grass quantity and quality drop. Trace minerals & vitamins:  Willow offers a light nutritional lift that supports general condition. Parasite support:  While research on camelids is limited, the condensed tannins found in willow have shown positive effects in related browsing species and may help reduce worm burdens as part of a wider parasite strategy. Mental stimulation:  Browsing reduces boredom, improves welfare and imitates natural foraging behaviour. Practical notes: Introduce gradually, especially to animals not accustomed to browse. Avoid offering huge volumes — camelids should still rely mostly on hay and pasture. Provide plenty of clean water, as higher tannin feed can increase water intake. Place willow bundles in racks or hung from fences to keep them clean and engaging. How to use willow with overwintering livestock You don’t need to convert the whole farm into a forest to get started. A few practical options: 1. Dedicated fodder blocks Plant short-rotation coppice blocks  of Salix viminalis (or suitable hybrids) in accessible spots. Once established, you can: Cut and carry  rods into yards, lambing sheds or loafing areas. Strip-graze standing coppice , letting animals browse regrowth during late autumn and early spring. Rotate access to avoid over-browsing and allow stools to recover. 2. Hedgerows and shelterbelts Incorporate willow into: New hedges  or gappy old ones. Shelterbelts  across exposed fields. You get shade in summer, shelter in winter and a regular source of browse , all while ticking plenty of agroforestry and biodiversity boxes. ( Woodland Trust ) 3. Lambing and calving support Cutting willow ahead of time gives you: A clean, fresh, fibrous supplement  to offer alongside hay or silage. A useful tool when appetite is off – some animals will pick at browse when they’re less keen on other feeds. Just keep it as an addition , not the entire ration. How much willow is “enough”? Because willow is relatively new in mainstream UK rations, there isn’t a single magic figure. But the research on tannin-rich forages gives us a useful guide: ( The Organic Research Centre ) Up to around 5% of total dry-matter intake from condensed tannins  is generally beneficial for protein use and worm control. Beyond that, performance may start to drop as tannins bind too much protein and reduce digestibility. In practice, that usually works out as willow making up a minority share of the daily intake  – think “a generous side-serving” rather than the whole plate . Safety notes and common-sense management A few sensible precautions: Introduce gradually  over 7–10 days so rumen microbes can adapt. Always offer willow alongside normal forage  (hay, silage, grass) rather than instead of it. Make sure stock have access to a balanced mineral source  – willow is good, but it’s not a complete premix. ( ScienceDirect ) Avoid letting hungry animals ring-bark young stools  – use temporary electric or guards until stools are well established. Remember: some trees are  toxic to livestock; willow is generally safe when fed sensibly, but don’t let stock at unknown ornamental species without checking first. ( Innovative Farmers ) And as always, talk to your vet or nutritionist  before making big changes to the rations of high-value or high-risk stock (pregnant ewes, fresh calvers, laminitis-prone horses etc). Why willow fits so neatly into winter on UK farms From a farm business point of view, willow fodder offers: A home-grown, low-input feed  that keeps producing for years once planted. Added resilience in dry summers and wet winters , when grass lets you down. Potential reductions in worm pressure and methane output , backed by peer-reviewed research. ( BioMed Central ) Better welfare and behaviour , from ewes to hens, simply by letting animals do what they evolved to do: browse. If you’d like to experiment with willow for your own flock or herd, the easiest way to start is with a small fodder block or a short run of willow in a hedge or shelterbelt . Once it’s away, you’ll quickly learn how your stock use it – and many farmers find they’re soon planning where to plant more. Our tip is to use those damp wet non-productive corners first. Plant Your Winter Willow Today Ready to add willow to your winter-feeding toolbox? Bowhayes Trees Ltd supplies high-quality willow varieties ideal for livestock fodder blocks, hedgerows, shelterbelts and sustainable farm planting. Fast-growing Salix viminalis varieties Expert advice for farms, smallholdings and estates Bulk quantities and tailored planting packs Bundles of willow for 'trial' with your livestock Browse our willow range and order online today at www.bowhayestrees.co.uk . Or get in touch for friendly, practical advice on designing your own fodder block or agroforestry system.

Table of Contents Introduction Consider Your Garden Size and Space Match the Tree to Your Garden Style Trees for Shade Trees for Privacy Trees for Colour and Seasonal Interest Trees for Wildlife Choosing with Confidence FAQs Picking the right tree for your garden is an exciting part of shaping your outdoor space. A well-chosen tree can bring shade, colour, privacy, or even a home for local wildlife. With so many options available in the UK, the best place to start is by thinking about what you want your tree to do, whether it’s adding structure, creating a screen, producing fruit, or attracting pollinators. This guide covers the key things to consider, from garden size and style to practical choices for privacy, fruiting, and container growing. Consider Your Garden Size and Space It’s easy to be tempted by a beautiful young tree in the nursery, but make sure you know its mature size before planting. Many species can take decades to reach their full height and spread, and a small sapling now could eventually overwhelm a compact garden, block light, or grow too close to buildings. Tree Species Highlights Cultivars to Consider Best For Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum) Compact shape, beautiful autumn colour, ideal for small gardens ‘Bloodgood’  • ‘Orange Dream’ • ‘Dissectum’ Small gardens , patios, containers Amelanchier (Juneberry) Spring blossom, autumn berries, wildlife-friendly Amelanchier lamarckii   • ‘Robin Hill’ Small–medium gardens , wildlife interest Rowan (Sorbus aucuparia) Elegant form, berries for birds, light canopy ‘Joseph Rock’  • ‘Eastern Promise’  • ‘Rosiness’ Small–medium gardens , wildlife gardens Silver Birch (Betula pendula) Light shade, attractive bark, supports insects Betula utilis  var. jacquemontii Medium–large gardens , wildlife-friendly spaces Flowering Cherry (Prunus) Stunning spring blossom, seasonal interest ‘Snow Goose’  • ‘Amanogawa’  • ‘Kanzan’ Small–medium gardens , formal or cottage styles Oak (Quercus robur) Majestic, long-lived native tree, excellent for wildlife Quercus robur  (English Oak)  • Quercus rubra  (Red Oak Tree) Large gardens , shade and heritage planting Crab Apple (Malus) Blossoms in spring, fruits in autumn, supports pollinators ‘Golden Hornet’ • ‘John Downie’  • ‘Evereste’ Small–medium gardens , wildlife and fruit Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) Evergreen foliage, excellent privacy screen ‘Rotundifolia’  • ‘Etna’ Medium–large gardens , year-round privacy One tree can make a difference: A small garden doesn’t mean you have to stick to tiny plants. A single well-chosen tree can completely change the feel of your space, adding height, structure, and character. The key is to pick something that suits your garden’s proportions. For example, in a long, narrow garden, a single tall, upright tree at the end can make the space feel more confined. Instead, try placing a tree with a spreading canopy slightly off-centre to soften the shape and make the garden feel wider. If your garden is narrow, consider columnar or fastigiate trees  that grow upright without spreading too far. Excellent choices include Ornamental Pear ( Pyrus calleryana  ‘Chanticleer’) , which provides white spring blossom and vibrant autumn colour, or Cherry (Prunus ‘Amanogawa’) , a slim, elegant tree that thrives in small spaces. Rowan (Sorbus aucuparia ‘Sheerwater Seedling’)  and Silver Birch ( Betula pendula )  are also great options — both have light, airy canopies that add height without creating heavy shade. Consider containers for tiny spaces: Even if you only have a patio, balcony, or courtyard, you can still enjoy the benefits of a tree. Many compact species and dwarf varieties grow happily in large pots, bringing greenery and colour where ground space is limited. Just ensure you use a sturdy container with good drainage and refresh the compost annually  to keep your tree healthy. Match the Tree to Your Garden Style Every garden has its own personality — and the trees you choose should reflect that. Whether you prefer a relaxed cottage feel, something modern and minimalist, or a neatly shaped formal layout, there’s a tree that fits perfectly. The trick is to think about shape, size, foliage, and seasonal interest  so your tree complements rather than clashes with your garden’s character. Choosing Trees by Garden Style Garden Style Tree Examples Highlights Formal Gardens Prunus laurocerasus ‘Rotundifolia’  (Laurel), Cupressus sempervirens  (Italian Cypress), Carpinus betulus  (Hornbeam) Evergreen structure and strong shapes; ideal for clipped forms and symmetry. Cottage or Informal Gardens Prunus ‘Snow Goose’  (Cherry), Crataegus monogyna  (Hawthorn) , Malus ‘Evereste’  (Crab Apple) Blossom, berries, and wildlife value; soft shapes that blend with flower borders. Contemporary Gardens Amelanchier lamarckii  (Juneberry), Betula pendula  (Silver Birch), Cercis canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’ Clean lines and multi-season colour; airy canopies and sculptural forms. Year-Round Interest Acer palmatum ‘Orange Dream’ , Acer griseum  (Paperbark Maple) , Photinia ‘Red Robin’ Bold foliage, bark texture, and seasonal colour to keep the garden interesting in every season. Trees for Shade Planting a tree for shade is one of the best ways to make your garden more comfortable on sunny days. A well-placed tree can cool a seating area, protect your home from heat, and create a calm, leafy retreat. If you have the space, choose trees with a broad canopy or dense foliage for full shade. Smaller gardens benefit from lighter, more open species that let sunlight filter through, creating dappled shade without blocking too much light. Flowering or compact varieties can also provide gentle cover for patios and lawns while adding seasonal colour. Before planting, think about where the shade will fall  throughout the day. A tree to the west of a patio will cool it in the afternoon, while one to the south can protect against strong midday sun. Remember to allow for root spread and plant larger trees well away from buildings or paths. The table below highlights some of the best trees for full, partial, and dappled shade in UK gardens. Best Trees for Shade in UK Gardens Shade Type Tree Species Highlights Best For Full Shade (Large Gardens) Quercus robur  (English Oak), Quercus rubra  (Red Oak) Dense canopy, long-lived, excellent for cooling lawns and larger spaces Expansive lawns, park-style gardens Partial Shade (Medium Gardens) Betula pendula  (Silver Birch), Sorbus aucuparia ‘Cardinal Royal’  (Rowan) Light canopy, attractive bark, wildlife-friendly Seating areas, borders, wildlife gardens Dappled Shade (Small Gardens) Amelanchier ‘Rainbow Pillar’ , Malus ‘Evereste’ , Prunus ‘Amanogawa’ Blossom, berries, autumn colour, and compact form Patios, courtyards, small spaces Seasonal Shade (Deciduous Option) Acer palmatum ‘Orange Dream’ , Acer griseum  (Paperbark Maple) Light summer shade, winter sun access, colourful foliage Shaded patios, ornamental use Trees for Privacy Planting trees for privacy is a simple and natural way to make your garden feel more secluded. Whether you want to block an unwanted view, reduce noise, or create a sense of enclosure, the right trees can give your outdoor space a calm and sheltered atmosphere. If you have plenty of room, tall evergreens are ideal for year-round screening and sound protection. In smaller gardens, look for trees with a narrow or upright habit that offer privacy without taking up too much space. Deciduous species like beech or hornbeam can also provide effective cover, as they hold on to their brown leaves well into winter. Before planting, think about where you need the most screening. A row of evergreens along a boundary can form a living fence, while a single, well-placed tree near a patio or seating area can create a sense of intimacy. Always allow space for roots and canopy growth to avoid overcrowding walls or fences. The table below highlights some of the best trees for privacy in UK gardens. Best Trees for Privacy in UK Gardens Privacy Type Tree Species Highlights Best For Year-Round Screening (Evergreen) Prunus laurocerasus ‘Rotundifolia’  (Cherry Laurel), Quercus ilex  (Holm Oak) Dense foliage, fast-growing, excellent all-season cover Boundaries, roadside screening Semi-Evergreen / Compact Photinia × fraseri ‘Red Robin’ , Pittosporum tenuifolium ‘Wrinkled Blue’ Colourful foliage, easy to maintain, ideal for smaller spaces Patio screening, decorative hedges Deciduous Privacy Carpinus betulus  (Hornbeam), Fagus sylvatica  (Beech) Retains leaves through winter, natural green screen Rural boundaries, garden edges Tall & Narrow Screening Cupressus sempervirens  (Italian Cypress), Thuja plicata ‘Atrovirens’ Upright habit, minimal footprint, fast-growing Driveways, fence lines, tight spaces Wildlife-Friendly Privacy Crataegus monogyna  (Hawthorn), Ilex aquifolium  (Holly) Dense structure, flowers and berries attract birds Natural gardens, wildlife habitats Trees for Colour and Seasonal Interest A garden that changes with the seasons always feels alive. By choosing trees that offer blossom, vibrant foliage, colourful bark, or berries, you can enjoy something new to admire all year round. Whether you love spring flowers, fiery autumn tones, or striking winter bark, the right mix of trees will keep your garden looking beautiful through every season. Start by thinking about when your garden looks its best — and when it could use more colour. You might pair a spring-flowering cherry with an autumn star like a maple or liquidambar, or add a silver birch for elegant winter structure. Mixing evergreens with deciduous trees helps maintain year-round interest, even when the leaves have fallen. The table below highlights some of the best trees for colour and seasonal appeal in UK gardens. Best Trees for Colour and Seasonal Interest Season Tree Species Highlights Best For Spring Blossom Prunus ‘Snow Goose’ , Malus ‘Evereste’ Clouds of white or pink flowers, pollinator-friendly Small to medium gardens, patios Summer Colour Acer platanoides ‘Crimson King’ , Cercis canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’ Rich red or purple foliage all summer Focal points, modern gardens Autumn Foliage Liquidambar styraciflua , Acer palmatum ‘Sango-Kaku’ Fiery oranges and reds, graceful form Seasonal display, sheltered spots Winter Interest Acer griseum  (Paperbark Maple), Betula utilis var. jacquemontii  (Silver Birch) Decorative bark, elegant structure Winter gardens, structural planting Year-Round Appeal Amelanchier lamarckii , Photinia × fraseri ‘Red Robin’ Blossom, berries, and seasonal colour All-round interest, smaller gardens Trees for Wildlife Planting a tree is one of the easiest ways to make your outdoor space more wildlife-friendly. Trees provide food, shelter, and nesting sites for birds, pollinators, and other creatures all year round. Even a single tree can become a buzzing hub of activity — alive with bees in spring, birds in summer, and berries for wildlife through autumn and winter. When choosing trees for wildlife, look for those with blossom, berries, or catkins. Native species are especially valuable, supporting a wide range of insects and birds. If your garden is small, don’t worry — many compact trees still offer plenty for nature without taking up too much room. If you’d like to dive deeper into creating a nature-friendly space, explore our other guides: Ornamental Trees for Wildlife Gardens  – discover stunning trees that attract birds, bees, and butterflies. The Importance of Bees – What Can Gardeners Do to Help Bees?  – practical tips to support pollinators year-round. Transform Your Garden into a Wildlife Paradise  – ideas to encourage biodiversity and bring your garden to life. The table below highlights some of the best trees for supporting wildlife in UK gardens. Tree Species Wildlife Benefits Seasonal Highlights Best For Rowan ( Sorbus aucuparia ) Flowers for pollinators, berries for birds White blossom in spring, red berries in autumn Medium gardens, wildlife-friendly planting Crab Apple ( Malus ‘Evereste’ ) Blossom for bees, fruit for birds Long-lasting fruits, spring flowers Small to medium gardens Hawthorn ( Crataegus monogyna ) Supports over 300 insect species, great nesting habitat White blossom in spring, red berries in autumn Hedging or natural-style gardens Silver Birch ( Betula pendula ) Attracts insects, seeds feed finches Light canopy, decorative bark Medium to large gardens Wild Cherry ( Prunus avium ) Blossom for bees, cherries for birds Spring blossom, glossy bark Naturalised areas, woodland edges Alder ( Alnus glutinosa ) Catkins feed early pollinators, supports wetland biodiversity Yellow catkins in spring Damp or riverside gardens Woodland Trust: 10 best trees to attract birds and other wildlife Choosing with Confidence Choosing the right tree for your space is one of the most rewarding decisions you can make. Whether you’re after shade, privacy, colour, or wildlife appeal, there’s a perfect tree for every type of garden. Take time to consider your space, soil, and the tree’s mature size — and you’ll enjoy beauty and benefits that grow year after year. If you’re ready to find the right tree, explore our full collection of ornamental  and bare root  trees to start planning your next addition. Still not sure which tree to choose? Don’t worry — we’re here to help! Our team can guide you in finding the perfect tree for your outdoor space. Get in touch  with our experts to chat about what will work best for you. FAQs What factors should I consider before choosing a tree for my garden? Think about the size of your garden, how much sunlight it gets, and what you want the tree to do — whether that’s adding shade, privacy, colour, or attracting wildlife. Also check the mature height and spread of the tree so it won’t outgrow the space. What trees are best for small gardens? Compact species like Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum) , Amelanchier lamarckii , and Crab Apple (Malus ‘Evereste’)  are ideal for small gardens. They add structure and seasonal interest without taking over the space. Which trees grow well in containers? Trees such as Japanese Maple , Bay Laurel , and Dwarf Apple Trees  thrive in large pots with good drainage. Refresh the compost each year and water regularly through summer. How can I use trees to create privacy? Evergreen trees like Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) , Holly (Ilex aquifolium) , and Photinia ‘Red Robin’  make excellent living screens. They stay leafy year-round and provide structure even in winter. What trees are best for attracting wildlife? Native and fruiting trees such as Rowan , Hawthorn , and Crab Apple  are favourites among birds, bees, and pollinators. Their blossom and berries provide food and shelter throughout the seasons.