Flowering Cherry Trees in the UK: The Ultimate Guide for Home Gardeners
- Kerri Cuthbert
- Jul 2
- 54 min read
The Allure of Flowering Cherry Trees in the UK
Flowering cherry trees (Prunus) are among the most cherished ornamental trees in British gardens, celebrated for their breathtaking spring blossom and year-round interest. Every spring, these trees burst into clouds of pink or white blooms for a few glorious weeks before petals drift down like confetti. There are around 50 ornamental cherry varieties that thrive in British gardens, from petite patio trees to grand avenues. Their popularity has only grown in recent years – Japan even gifted 6,500 cherry trees to the UK in 2019-2020 as a symbol of friendship, spurring nationwide planting and cherry blossom festivals.
In the UK’s temperate climate, ornamental cherries offer multi-season appeal. Many cultivars not only enchant in spring but also provide lush summer foliage, vivid autumn leaf colour, and attractive bark in winter. Home gardeners and landscapers value flowering cherries for their manageable size (often ideal for small gardens), elegant forms, and cultural significance. In Japan, the tradition of hanami (flower viewing) celebrates the transient beauty of cherry blossoms – a passion that has caught on in the UK too, with people eagerly sharing first-blossom sightings each spring. Simply put, a flowering cherry tree can be a stunning focal point that heralds the spring and enriches your garden’s beauty and biodiversity year after year.
Cherry Tree Forms and Growth Habits: Upright, Weeping, Spreading, and Dwarf
One of the delights of ornamental cherries is the variety of forms available, which means there’s a cherry tree suited to almost any garden space or design. The main growth habits include:
Upright/Columnar Cherry Trees: These have a narrow, vertical profile – perfect for small gardens or tight spaces. Prunus serrulata ‘Amanogawa’ (the Flagpole cherry) is a classic example, with a slender fastigiate shape reaching ~4–8 m tall but only ~1–2 m wide. Its pale pink semi-double blossoms appear in late spring, and it earned the RHS Award of Garden Merit for being one of the best trees for small gardens. Columnar cherries like ‘Amanogawa’ create vertical accents without casting dense shade, making them ideal along fences, driveways or as patio centerpieces.
Weeping Cherry Trees: These cherries have graceful cascading branches that droop toward the ground. They create a romantic, umbrella-like silhouette when in bloom. A popular example is Prunus ‘Kiku-shidare-zakura’ (Cheal’s weeping cherry) with pink double blossoms on pendent branches. For a smaller weeping tree, Prunus ‘Snow Showers’ (also known as weeping Fuji cherry) grows only ~3–4 m tall, with slender branches smothered in white single flowers each March/April. Weeping forms are excellent for visual impact in lawns or courtyard gardens; even top-grafted weeping cherries can thrive in large containers, bringing a waterfall of blossom to patios.
Spreading or Round-Crowned Cherry Trees: Many traditional Japanese cherries have a broad, spreading habit with a rounded crown. They can form an impressive canopy of blossom. For instance, Prunus ‘Shogetsu’ (also called Blushing Bride) forms a wide spreading tree ~3–4 m tall, with long clusters of large double pink-white flowers hanging from branches in late spring. Likewise, the famous Prunus ‘Tai-haku’ (Great White Cherry) forms a broad crown and is valued for huge single white blossoms; it can reach 8+ m at maturity and is best suited to larger gardens or parks. Spreading cherries often cast light dappled shade and can be underplanted with bulbs or perennials (e.g. crocus, bluebells) for a stunning spring scene.
Dwarf and Compact Cherry Trees: Gardeners with terraces, small yards, or even balcony containers can still enjoy cherry blossoms by choosing naturally small varieties or shrub-form cherries. Prunus incisa ‘Kojo-no-mai’ is a dwarf Fuji cherry reaching about 2 m height/spread in 10–20 years – it has a dense, twiggy habit (sometimes grown as a bonsai-like shrub) and bursts into a profusion of delicate blush-pink flowers on zigzag branches each spring. Another compact choice is Prunus ‘The Bride’, a small shrubby cherry (~2.5–3 m) that is absolutely covered in large single white flowers with vivid red stamens. These tiny trees are perfect for pots or tight corners, bringing ornamental cherry charm to the smallest of spaces.
Each form offers different landscape uses – columnar cherries can frame entrances or line paths, weeping cherries create graceful focal points or “living umbrellas” for seating areas, spreading types provide canopy and seasonal shade, and dwarf types suit container gardening or low borders. When choosing a cherry tree, consider its ultimate shape and size to ensure it fits your space and design vision (always check the expected mature height/spread to avoid future overcrowding). With the right form, a cherry tree can either stand as a statement specimen or harmonise within mixed plantings beautifully.
Best Flowering Cherry Tree Varieties for UK Gardens
With so many lovely cherries available, it helps to narrow choices based on your garden size, soil conditions, and regional climate. Below are some of the best flowering cherry tree varieties for various UK garden scenarios, each chosen for reliable performance in British conditions:
Best Cherry Trees for Small Gardens and Patios
If you have a small garden or even just a patio, look for compact or slow-growing cherry trees that won’t overwhelm the space. These varieties stay reasonably small (often under 3–5 m tall) but still deliver abundant blossom:
Prunus incisa ‘Kojo-no-mai’ – Dwarf Cherry: A top pick for tiny spaces and containers. ‘Kojo-no-mai’ is a slow-growing Fuji cherry with a gnarly, architectural form and masses of pale pink blooms in early spring. In autumn its small leaves turn orange-red, giving multi-season interest. It thrives in pots or front garden borders. Tip: Plant in a decorative container near a window or doorway to enjoy the blossoms up close, and water regularly in summer since pots can dry out quickly.
Prunus ‘The Bride’ – Small White Cherry: Aptly named, ‘The Bride’ dazzles with large single white flowers blushed with red/pink stamens, completely covering the branches in spring. It grows as a dense, rounded shrub/tree to about 2–3 m. In winter its attractive silhouette adds interest. This cherry tolerates being pruned to keep compact, making it great for small gardens. It also attracts pollinators with its single, nectar-rich blooms (more on that in the biodiversity section).
Prunus ‘Snow Showers’ – Weeping Cherry: An excellent weeping form for small gardens, reaching ~3 m tall with a similar spread. ‘Snow Showers’ (also sold as Fragrant Cloud or Fuji cherry) has gracefully weeping branches that in March are smothered in pure white single flowers like a flurry of snow. It’s even suitable for a large patio pot if grown on a dwarf rootstock. Place it where its cascading blossoms can be appreciated from below – for example, beside a seating area. It also offers orange tints in autumn foliage.
Prunus serrulata ‘Amanogawa’ – Columnar Cherry: As mentioned, ‘Amanogawa’ is one of the best cherries for small gardens due to its narrow upright habit. It bears fragrant pale pink blossoms in late spring and won’t cast dense shade. Planting a pair of ‘Amanogawa’ cherries can beautifully frame a small gate or view without needing much ground space. It grows ~4–5 m tall in 10–20 years but stays under 2 m wide. This cultivar is also fairly hardy and does well in most soil types (moist but well-drained).
Prunus × subhirtella ‘Autumnalis Rosea’ – Winter-flowering Cherry: A delightful small tree (~3–4 m) known for its unusual habit of blooming in mild winter spells as well as in early spring. ‘Autumnalis Rosea’ has a spreading habit and produces flushes of semi-double pale pink flowers on bare twigs from late autumn through to March. It’s totally hardy and provides welcome blossom on warmer winter days when little else is out. Mature size is around 12 ft tall, but it can be pruned to maintain a lower crown. This tree suits urban gardens and is a sure conversation-starter in the cold months!
All the above varieties will thrive across the UK given reasonable care. When planting in small spaces, ensure the tree has good soil (improve it with garden compost) and adequate water while establishing. Consider root barriers if planting near foundations/paving (most ornamental cherry roots are not aggressive, but it’s wise in tiny courtyard settings). With the right compact cherry, even a postage-stamp garden can enjoy the magic of cherry blossoms each spring.
Top Cherry Tree Varieties for Medium to Large Gardens
In larger gardens, you have the freedom to choose cherries with more expansive forms or dramatic displays. Here are some recommended ornamental cherry trees for medium and big gardens:
Prunus serrulata ‘Kanzan’ – Japanese Flowering Cherry: Perhaps the most iconic cherry blossom tree, ‘Kanzan’ is a show-stopper with its exuberant clusters of double deep-pink flowers that emerge in mid-late spring. It forms a broad, vase-shaped crown reaching about 8–10 m at maturity (over many decades), so it needs room. ‘Kanzan’ is perfect as a specimen in a lawn or to create a blooming avenue along a drive. Do note its blossoms are sterile (the flowers have been bred to be fully double), so it produces little to no fruit – all energy goes into flowering. As a result, it’s less beneficial to pollinators (which we'll address later), but for pure ornamental impact, it’s hard to beat. Kanzan thrives in UK climates, handling frost well, though a late spring frost can occasionally nip the early buds.
Prunus ‘Accolade’ – Hybrid Flowering Cherry: ‘Accolade’ is a hybrid cherry (P. sargentii × P. subhirtella) that many experts praise for all-round garden performance. It’s a graceful spreading tree reaching ~6 m tall with a broad canopy (~4–6 m) in 20 years. In April, it is profusely covered in large light pink semi-double flowers, which are attractive to bees. The show doesn’t stop there – in autumn, ‘Accolade’ foliage turns vibrant shades of orange and red. It’s hardy throughout the UK and relatively easy to grow. This cultivar fits well in medium gardens as a focal point without getting as huge as some traditional cherries. It was actually developed in Surrey, UK (at Knaphill in the 1950s), so it’s well-suited to British conditions. If you want a reliable all-season cherry, ‘Accolade’ is a top choice (and is available pot-grown at Bowhayes Trees, for instance, ready to plant).
Prunus ‘Shogetsu’ – Blushing Bride Cherry: For a late-flowering cherry, consider ‘Shogetsu’. An old Japanese cultivar (from the 17th century) also nicknamed Blushing Bride, it flowers in late April to May with pendant clusters of large double blossoms. Buds start deep pink and open to pure white frilly flowers that can be 5–6 cm across. The effect is breathtaking, and as a bonus, the tree has spectacular autumn color, with leaves turning orange-red before fall. ‘Shogetsu’ remains a small to medium tree (~3–5 m tall) but with a wide spreading habit (needs space to spread its arching branches). It’s excellent for an open lawn or spacious border. Because it flowers later than most cherries, it often escapes early spring frosts — useful for gardeners in frost-prone areas of the UK.
Prunus serrulata ‘Tai-haku’ – Great White Cherry: This legendary cherry tree is a piece of horticultural history and a stunner for large gardens. ‘Tai-haku’ (Great White) produces huge single white blossoms (6–7 cm across) that cloak the branches in late spring. The blossoms emerge all at once, creating a snow-white display. The tree itself grows vigorously into a broad shape (~8–10 m tall and wide at maturity). Thought extinct in Japan, it was famously reintroduced from an English garden by Collingwood “Cherry” Ingram in 1926. ‘Tai-haku’ does well in the UK climate, and a collection of 329 of these trees in Alnwick Garden, Northumberland puts on one of the country’s most spectacular late-April displays. This tree needs a lot of space and rich soil. It’s ideal for parks or large rural gardens where it can be allowed to reach its full glory. The cultural cachet and sheer beauty of ‘Tai-haku’ make it a prized specimen for enthusiasts.
Other Notable Varieties: Prunus avium ‘Plena’ (double white wild cherry) is a lovely medium-to-large tree for a more natural look, with frilly white flowers and being a native species cultivar it can support wildlife. Prunus cerasifera ‘Nigra’ (Purple-leaf cherry plum) is not grown for blossom alone but has pretty pale pink flowers in early spring followed by dark purple foliage – a nice smaller tree (~5 m) that provides colour beyond bloom time. And for something different, Prunus serrula (Tibetan cherry) is grown for its stunning glossy copper-brown bark; it has smaller white blossoms but the mahogany peeling bark shines in winter. Mixing a flowering cherry with a crabapple tree or two can also extend your spring display (crabapples often bloom slightly later and add different colors – more on cherries vs crabapples shortly).
When selecting a cherry variety, factor in your soil type and microclimate as well:
Most ornamental cherries prefer well-drained, fertile soil (loam is ideal). They do not thrive in boggy or waterlogged ground – if you have heavy clay, plant on a raised mound or improve drainage for success. That said, some cherry species are more tolerant of clay or damp sites (for example, the native Prunus padus – Bird cherry – naturally grows in damp woodland and can handle heavier soil). Bird cherry has fragrant white drooping flower clusters and is very hardy, though it’s more often used in naturalistic or larger gardens.
In chalky (alkaline) soils, flowering cherries can suffer chlorosis (yellowing leaves) if they are on their own roots. Many ornamental cherries are grafted onto rootstocks that handle chalk better (e.g. wild cherry rootstock can cope with moderately alkaline soil). If you have shallow chalk, consider Prunus avium (wild cherry) or Prunus mahaleb based hybrids, as these species are quite lime-tolerant. Prunus avium ‘Plena’ mentioned above could be a good choice – it’s essentially a double-flowered form of the native wild cherry which grows on chalk downlands in the wildwoodlandtrust.org.uk.
For coastal gardens or windy, exposed sites, choose a sturdy species and provide some shelter when young. Cherries have fairly thin bark and can get damaged by salt-laden winds. However, compact forms like ‘Snow Showers’ or a tough cherry plum can manage if planted in a somewhat sheltered corner. Always stake young trees well in windy areas (but loosen ties yearly to prevent rubbing).
For urban environments, flowering cherries are great because they tolerate pollution and restricted root runs better than many trees. You’ll often see cherries lining city streets. The purple-leaf plum (P. cerasifera ‘Nigra’) is frequently planted urbanly. Prunus ‘Amanogawa’ is also excellent in urban courtyards due to its narrow form. Just ensure street trees get enough water – container-grown cherries can be planted year-round in cities, but aim for autumn to give roots a chance to establish before summer heat.
By matching the right variety to your garden’s size and conditions, you’ll set your flowering cherry up for success. Local climate within the UK is also a factor: southern regions and coastal areas have milder winters which early-blooming cherries (like ‘Autumnalis’) appreciate, whereas colder northern or upland regions might do better with late-bloomers (‘Shirofugen’, ‘Tai-haku’) to avoid frost damage on buds. Fortunately, most ornamental cherries sold in UK nurseries are fully hardy throughout the country – just be mindful of bloom timing and give them a sheltered spot if possible (strong winds can strip blossoms off any cherry tree prematurely).
(Internal resource: For more ideas on choosing trees for tight spaces, see our guide on Ornamental Trees for Small Gardens. And if you’re aiming for season-long interest, our blog on Top 10 Ornamental Trees for UK Gardens covers cherries and other genera that shine in every season.)
How to Plant a Cherry Blossom Tree (UK Planting Guide)
Proper planting is crucial to get your cherry tree off to a strong start. Whether you’re planting a bare-root cherry in winter or a container-grown tree in spring, following recommended techniques will help ensure healthy establishment. Below is a step-by-step planting guide tailored to UK gardeners:
1. Timing – When to Plant: The best time to plant new cherry trees is during the dormant season, late autumn through early spring (roughly October to March)rhs.org.uk. In the UK, fall planting (Oct–Nov) is ideal because the soil is still warm enough to encourage root growth before winter. Avoid planting in waterlogged or frozen groundrhs.org.uk. Container-grown cherries can technically be planted any time of year, but planting in autumn or early spring is easier as rainfall and moderate temperatures help reduce transplant stressrhs.org.uk. If planting in summer, you must be diligent with watering.
2. Site Selection: Choose a sunny, sheltered spot for best flowering. Full sun (6+ hours/day) will ensure an abundant bloom and healthy growth. A little partial shade is tolerated by some cherries (for instance, Morello sour cherry can grow in some shade), but ornamental Japanese cherries prefer sun. Shelter from strong winds is important – high winds can batter blossoms and dry out young trees. A position with some protection (e.g. near a house wall or among other trees) is beneficial, especially in coastal or high-altitude gardens. Also consider spacing: allow enough room for the tree’s mature spread so branches aren’t cramped (e.g. small cherries can be ~2–3 m apart, larger ones 6–8 m apart).
3. Soil Preparation: Cherry trees like fertile, well-drained soils. Before planting, prepare the soil by digging it over a wide area (at least a 1 m diameter circle) to loosen compaction and improve drainage. Remove any perennial weeds. You can mix in some well-rotted compost or manure around the planting zone (not pure in the hole) to boost organic matter – but avoid placing a thick layer of manure at the bottom of the hole, as this can cause the plant to sink as it decomposes. It’s generally not beneficial to add a lot of fertiliser at planting time; too much nutrient can burn new roots. If you know your soil is poor, you might dust the roots with mycorrhizal fungi granules to encourage root establishment (this is optional but sometimes recommended on challenging soils). For heavy clay or poorly drained sites, consider planting on a raised mound ~25 cm high to keep roots above waterlogging.
4. Digging the Hole: Dig a planting hole that is wide but not overly deep. A good rule is at least 2–3 times the width of the rootball, and only as deep as the root system (so that the root collar will sit at soil level). For bare-root trees, it can help to make a cone of soil at the bottom of the hole to spread the roots over (see next step). Break up any compacted soil on the sides or bottom of the hole with a fork, especially in clay, to allow roots to penetrate outwards. A square hole can encourage roots to spread into corners (useful on heavy soil) but ultimately as long as it’s broad and loosened, shape is not critical. In grass lawns, a circular planting ring is easier to maintain (mow around) and can be mulched.
5. Planting the Tree: Handle your young cherry tree gently to avoid root damage. If bare-root, first soak the roots in a bucket of water for 30–60 minutes prior to planting – this ensures they’re well hydrated. Position the tree in the hole so that the root collar (where the roots join the stem) sits at ground level or just slightly above (it may settle a bit). Do not plant too deep – burying the trunk can lead to rot and poor establishment. Spread out the roots naturally. For container-grown trees, carefully remove the pot and tease out any pot-bound roots by loosening or cutting circling roots; this helps them grow outward into native soil. Place the rootball in the hole at the same depth it was in the pot (often you’ll see a soil mark on the trunk). Check the orientation (choose the tree’s best side to face your main viewpoint).
6. Backfilling: Refill the hole with the excavated soil (if it’s poor soil you can mix in some general purpose compost, but mostly use the native soil so the tree adjusts). Backfill in layers, firming the soil gently with your hand or boot as you go to eliminate air pockets. Take care not to excessively compact the soil – it should be firm enough that the tree is stable but not tamped down hard. Ensure that the trunk is upright and the tree hasn’t sunk too low while backfilling.
7. Staking: Most small ornamentals cherries won’t require heavy staking, but it’s often wise to stake a new tree for the first year or two, especially in windy sites or if the tree is tall/top-heavy. Use a stake driven on the windward side (so the tree is blown away from it, reducing rubbing). For a single stake method: drive a sturdy stake at a 45° angle reaching the trunk around ~1/3 the tree’s height. Secure the trunk to the stake with a tree tie or strap just below the lowest branch – tie it loosely in a figure-8 so that the stem can still flex slightly (movement encourages stronger stem growth). The stake should keep the rootball from rocking in wind. Check ties at least annually and loosen if needed; remove the stake entirely after the tree is established (usually 2-3 years) to avoid girdling.
8. Watering In: Immediately after planting, water the tree thoroughly. Even if the soil is damp, a good soak settles soil around roots. For bare-root trees, this is critical to eliminate any remaining air pockets and hydrate the plant. Slowly pour several watering cans worth of water (or use a hose on a trickle) over the root zone. The water should percolate down and help the soil settle. You may notice the soil sinking – add a bit more soil if needed after watering.
9. Mulching: Apply a mulch around the base of the tree to conserve moisture and suppress weeds. Use organic mulch like compost, well-rotted manure, bark chippings, or leaf-mould. A 5–8 cm thick layer around a 50 cm radius (for small trees) up to 1 m radius (for larger) is beneficial. Keep the mulch a few inches away from touching the trunk to prevent rot. Mulching will keep the roots cooler in summer, reduce evaporation, and as it breaks down it improves soil. It also prevents grass from growing right up to the trunk (grass competes strongly with young trees for water/nutrients).
10. Initial Aftercare: In the weeks after planting, especially for autumn or spring plantings, monitor soil moisture. If rainfall is lacking, water the young tree regularly (newly planted trees may need ~10–20 litres weekly in dry spells). Check that the tree remains straight and firm in the ground – if it leans, re-stake or firm the soil again. Avoid fertilising at planting time beyond perhaps a light application of bonemeal or slow-release in the topsoil; too much quick-release fertiliser can scorch new roots. The next growing season, you can start a normal feeding regime if needed.
Common Planting Mistakes to Avoid:
Planting too deep: As mentioned, burying the trunk or graft union can kill a young cherry. Always have the root flare at or just above soil level.
Waterlogging the roots: Don’t plant in a sump – ensure drainage is adequate. If your site is prone to standing water, choose a different spot or build up a mound. Cherries will suffer root rot in waterlogged soil.
Failure to soak or water in: Dry roots at planting are a recipe for failure. Bare-root trees must be kept moist; never let roots dry out during planting. And after planting, water deeply.
Adding fertiliser in the hole: It’s unnecessary and can do more harm than good (excess salts can burn roots, and it encourages roots to stay in the hole rather than spreading out). Focus on soil structure and moisture instead for establishment.
Not staking when needed: If a tree is left to rock in strong winds, new roots can break and the tree may fail to anchor. Stake appropriately but not rigidly – the tree should not be rigidly fixed (slight swaying is okay).
Neglecting aftercare: A newly planted tree needs attention in its first year. Lack of water, or conversely, drowning the roots, are common killers. Check soil weekly; keep it moist but not sodden. Also guard against rabbits/deer if in rural areas (use trunk guards) to prevent bark nibbling.
By following these planting guidelines, your cherry blossom tree should establish well. According to the Royal Horticultural Society, careful planting and early aftercare are vital for any tree to “establish quickly and grow well”. Once established (usually after 2-3 years), your cherry tree will reward you with increasing blossom and growth each season with minimal fuss.
(Internal link: For more detailed tree planting tips and diagrams, see our How to Plant and Care for Ornamental Trees – Seasonal Guide on the Bowhayes Trees blog. It offers additional advice on positioning and aftercare, drawing on RHS research.)
Long-Term Cherry Tree Care and Pruning Schedule (Month-by-Month)
Once your flowering cherry tree is in the ground, ongoing care is relatively straightforward – cherries are not particularly high-maintenance. However, consistent seasonal care will keep your tree healthy, flowering vigorously, and looking its best for decades. In particular, knowing when and how to prune cherries is important to avoid disease. Below we outline key care tasks in a month-by-month calendar for cherry tree care in the UK:
Month | Cherry Tree Care Tasks |
January | Plant bare-root cherry trees now if weather permits (dormant season) – this is an ideal time while the tree is sleeping. Avoid planting if ground is frozen or waterlogged. If you planted in autumn, check that stakes and ties are secure after winter storms (but not too tight). Young trees may be protected from harsh frost with horticultural fleece or a tree guard, especially in northern UK areas. No pruning – leave until summer to prevent silver leaf infection. |
February | Finish any bare-root planting by the end of this month, before buds break. Late winter is a good time to apply a slow-release fertiliser or balanced tree food around the base, to be available when spring growth starts (follow product rates; avoid excessive nitrogen). Replenish mulch if it has degraded over winter, maintaining a weed-free zone around the trunk. Continue to inspect stakes and tree ties – loosen if the stem has thickened to avoid girdling. |
March | Spring is arriving – you may see early blossoms (e.g. ‘Autumnalis’ varieties can bloom now). Refresh the mulch around the base of your cherry tree if you haven’t already, to conserve soil moisture and suppress emerging weeds. This is a good time to top-dress with a general fertiliser (like Growmore or fish-blood-bone) to encourage healthy growth and plentiful flowering. Water newly planted trees during dry spells as buds swell – spring drought can hinder new growth. Start keeping an eye out for pests as the weather warms (aphids often become active on new shoots); an early organic spray or soapy wash can keep them in check. |
April | Peak blossom time! Enjoy the show. Take lots of photos of your cherry tree in bloom – the display may last only a week or tworoyalparks.org.uk. While appreciating the flowers, also be mindful of care: ensure the soil is moist (April can be dry, and trees are leafing out). If there’s a late frost forecast and you have a very young or potted cherry, you might throw a fleece over it at night to protect the blossoms (frost can brown the blooms). Monitor for aphids (cherry blackfly) – telltale curled leaves at shoot tips mean they’re feeding. Wash them off with water or use a gentle insecticidal soap before they multiply. Avoid spraying when blossoms are fully open (to protect bees). This month, do not prune except to remove any clearly dead or broken branches; cherries are best pruned after flowering, not during it. |
May | As flowering finishes (late April to May for many cultivars), it’s the prime time for any needed pruning or trimming. Prune cherries in late spring to early summer – never in winter – to avoid silver leaf disease and bacterial canker. So May or June is ideal for ornamentals. Remove any crossing or rubbing branches, dead wood, or thin out congested growth to let light in. Also cut back any suckers (shoots from the base or rootstock) if your tree is grafted. Make clean cuts, and avoid tearing the bark – use the “three-cut method” for larger limbs (undercut first, then cut from top a bit further out, then trim stub) to prevent bark stripping. Pruning immediately after bloom allows cuts to heal in the drier early summer period when silver leaf fungal spores are less active. After pruning, you can feed the tree to boost summer growth – a balanced fertiliser or a mulch of compost around the root zone works well. Lastly, this is a good time to spray a preventative fungicide if you had issues like blossom wilt or leaf spot in previous years (organic gardeners may skip this, but it’s something to consider for specimen trees). |
June | Early summer and your cherry tree will be in full leaf. Water young trees during any hot or dry spells – especially those planted in the last couple of years, as their roots won’t yet reach deep moisture. A deep soak once a week in dry weather is better than frequent light sprinkling (encourages deep rooting). If you haven’t pruned yet, finish pruning by end of June. Cherries should not be pruned later than mid-summer if possible, to allow cuts to seal and to again avoid silver leaf infection which can occur in the damp autumn/winter. After late June, it’s best to put the secateurs away. Instead, focus on pest and disease monitoring: check the undersides of leaves for aphid colonies or any caterpillars munching (some moth larvae like orchard ermine can skeletonise cherry leaves). Remove pests by hand or with organic controls as needed. Also examine the trunk and branches for signs of bacterial canker (sunken patches of bark or oozing gum); if found, mark those branches for removal next summer, and keep the tree healthy to compartmentalise infection. |
July | Usually one of the hottest months – continue to water regularly, especially any cherries in containers or newly planted. Even established cherry trees will benefit from a drink during prolonged drought; while they won’t die, drought stress can reduce next year’s flower buds and lead to early leaf drop. July is also the time to look out for signs of disease: if you see leaves developing “shot hole” (tiny holes in leaves) or early yellowing, it could indicate cherry leaf spot or other fungal issues. Rake and dispose of any diseased fallen leaves (do not compost them) to reduce spore spread. Major pruning should be done by now, but you can still do minor tweaks like pinching off a water shoot or snag here and there. Avoid major cuts in late summer. If your ornamental cherry set any small fruits (some do, some don’t), you might notice birds nibbling them around now – which is fine, they usually clean them up (ornamental cherry fruit are usually too bitter for us, but birds enjoy the snack!). |
August | Late summer and generally a quieter time for maintenance. Watering remains key during heatwaves. You typically should not feed cherries in August with high-nitrogen fertiliser, as that could trigger soft new growth that won’t harden before winter. If anything, a little sulphate of potash feed could be given to strengthen buds for next spring, but it’s usually unnecessary if you mulched earlier. Continue good hygiene: pick off any leaves that show disease and dispose of them. This is also a nice time to just enjoy the foliage – some cherries have coppery or dark summer leaves (like copper cherry plum) that add interest now. Watch for web-spinning caterpillars (like ermine moth larvae) that can cover sections of the tree in webs – they’re unsightly but usually don’t cause long-term harm; you can prune out the affected bit or spray if severe. Also, check tree ties again – summer storms can cause trees to sway, so ensure ties aren’t chafing the bark. |
September | The beginning of autumn – foliage will start to change colour on many cherries, especially decorative ones like ‘Accolade’ or ‘Shogetsu’ which blaze orange-red. To support the tree’s winter hardiness, you can apply a low-nitrogen, higher potassium feed this month (an “autumn feed”) which helps roots and next year’s buds. Early autumn is also when fungal diseases can proliferate on fallen leaves. Rake up fallen cherry leaves regularly, particularly if you had any leaf spot or mildew, and bin or burn them. This sanitation will reduce overwintering spores and pests. If your lawn grows up to the tree, consider keeping a clear mulch ring at least through autumn to ease leaf cleanup and protect the trunk base. Planting season begins towards late September: you can plant container-grown cherry trees now as soil moisture increases and temperatures cool – giving them a head-start on root growth before winter. |
October | A busy time: leaves are falling (in fact, a healthy cherry will often drop all its leaves by mid-late October). Continue to collect and dispose of leaves to prevent disease carry-over. Once the tree is bare, you get a good look at its structure – resist the urge to prune now, though; leave any structural pruning for late winter or next summer. Planting of new cherry trees is in full swing now – October through November is ideal for bare-root planting (once stock is available) and for pot-grown trees to settle in while the soil is still warm. When planting in autumn, remember to water during dry spells since newly planted trees can suffer if the autumn is unusually dry. Mulch the root area after planting to keep weeds down and protect roots from cold. In rural gardens, you may need to install rabbit guards or fencing now, as hungry rabbits and deer in winter can nibble bark and buds off young cherry trees. A simple spiral guard or mesh around the trunk prevents bark damage. |
November | As winter approaches, finish planting bare-root trees this month for best results (you can plant in winter too if conditions allow, but earlier is better). Trees planted in November often establish quickest as they have autumn rains and a bit of time to grow feeder roots. After planting, stake and tie the tree properly as described above – winter gales can uproot a newly planted sapling if not supported. Established trees mostly require little in November; just ensure any protective measures (stakes, ties, guards) are in place. This is also a good time to inspect the tree’s structure while bare: identify any crossing limbs or congested areas you may want to address with summer pruning next year. But do not prune in November, as the spores of silver leaf disease are abundant in cool, wet weather and can infect fresh cuts. Keep the tree dormant and undisturbed. If you had a history of peach leaf curl or other fungal issues on related Prunus, you might apply a dormant spray (copper-based) now as a preventative, though this is more common for fruiting cherries than purely ornamental ones. |
December | Early winter – your cherry tree is likely fully dormant now. Aside from occasionally watering any recently planted tree during dry spells (yes, even in winter, newly planted trees shouldn’t be bone dry), there’s not much active care needed. Avoid waterlogging potted cherries left outside by raising containers on feet. It’s a good time to plan: consider applying well-rotted manure or compost around the drip line as a winter mulch (nutrients will leach in slowly). Check stakes and ties after any severe storms. Heavy snow can sometimes load up on branch tops – if a wet snowfall hits, you might gently shake or brush off excessive snow from evergreens or dense branching to prevent breakages (most cherries’ branching is pretty resilient and bare in winter, so not usually an issue). No pruning or cutting – let the tree rest. Soon, as the days lengthen, the buds will swell and another cycle will begin. Use these quieter months to perhaps browse catalogues for that next cherry variety to plant! |
As the calendar shows, much of cherry tree care revolves around seasonal timing. A crucial point is pruning in summer (late spring to mid-summer) only, not in winter. This avoids the deadly silver leaf fungus, which infects pruning cuts in cool damp conditions and can kill cherries. The “never prune cherries in winter” rule is echoed by horticultural experts – always wait until after blossoming and during drier weather to do any cutting. Thankfully, ornamental cherries often require minimal pruning; they naturally form an attractive shape. Often you’ll just be removing the 3 D’s: dead, diseased, or damaged wood, and perhaps thinning a little for airflow.
Feeding: Cherry trees don’t need heavy feeding in fertile garden soil. Once a year in early spring, you can scatter a general-purpose fertiliser around the root zone to boost growth and flowering. Alternatively, an autumn application of slow-release feed or simply maintaining a nutrient-rich mulch can suffice. If the tree’s leaves are pale or growth is weak, a spring feed with a balanced fertiliser (e.g. NPK ~10-10-10) is helpful. Avoid high-nitrogen lawn fertilisers near cherries; they can produce lots of leafy growth at the expense of flowers and increase susceptibility to pests.
Watering: Other than keeping young trees watered, established ornamental cherries typically manage with natural rainfall in the UK. But in drought or very hot spells, deep watering once a week is wise to prevent stress (especially on sandy soils). Leaf scorch or early leaf drop in summer can be a sign of drought stress. A generous mulch layer helps reduce how often you need to water by retaining soil moisture.
Mulching & Weeding: We can’t overstate the benefit of an annual mulch. It feeds the soil, protects roots, and encourages beneficial soil life. Keep a circle at least 60 cm radius around the trunk free of grass and weeds, as competition can significantly reduce young tree growth. A weed-free mulch zone also makes it easier to mow/strim without damaging the trunk (mechanical damage to bark is a common cause of problems in ornamental trees).
By following a regular care routine as above, your flowering cherry should remain healthy. Well-cared-for cherry trees can live 20-40 years in gardens (some ornamental cherries are relatively short-lived ~15-30 years, but others like certain wild cherry species or the hardier ornamental hybrids can live longer). The reward is decades of spring beauty. Consistent care – a little pruning, feeding, watering, and vigilance for issues – will ensure spectacular blossoms and robust growth every year.
(Internal link: Check out our Pruning Ornamental Trees for Shape and Health article for detailed pruning diagrams and tips specific to cherries, plums, and other stone fruit trees.)
Common Pests, Diseases, and Problems of Cherry Trees (and How to Prevent Them)
Flowering cherry trees are generally robust, but like all Prunus species they can encounter a few pests and diseases. Proactive care and prompt action can keep these issues at bay. Here are the most common problems in the UK and ways to manage them:
Black Cherry Aphids (Cherry Blackfly): These are small black sap-sucking insects that cluster on young leaves and shoot tips, causing leaves to curl and distort. Heavy infestations can stunt new growth and produce sticky honeydew. They are often noticed in late spring when leaves become tightly curled. Control: Inspect your cherry in spring; at the first sign of aphids or ants (which farm aphids), spray the undersides of leaves with a strong jet of water or use insecticidal soap. Ladybird larvae and other predators usually help later in summer. If leaves are badly curled, you may prune out those sections (disposing of them) since systemic sprays can’t reach aphids inside curled leaves easily. Prevent winter egg laying by applying a winter wash (plant oil based) on the bark in January. Generally, a healthy tree tolerates some aphid damage, but severe infestations, especially on young trees, need addressing. Dieback of shoots can occur if blackfly damage is extreme, so early intervention is best.
Caterpillars and Leaf-Eating Pests: A variety of caterpillars may nibble on cherry foliage. Notably, the orchard ermine moth can form webby tents on branches with hundreds of caterpillars that strip leaves (this looks alarming but trees often recover). Winter moth caterpillars can also chew holes in spring leaves. Control: For minor chewing, no action is needed – birds will eat many caterpillars. For larger infestations or unsightly webs, prune off the affected branch tip or physically remove the webbing and caterpillars (wear gloves). Pheromone traps for winter moths placed in late autumn can catch wingless females climbing trunks to lay eggs. Also, grease bands on the trunk in November will stop wingless female winter moths from climbing up to lay eggs in the tree. Keeping the tree well-fed and watered helps it withstand defoliation. Many moth larvae actually use cherry leaves as food (e.g. cherry fruit moth, cherry bark moth, brimstone moth caterpillars), but natural predators usually keep them in check if the garden is wildlife-friendly.
Cherry Leaf Spot (Blumeriella jaapii): A fungal disease causing tiny purple spots on leaves, which later turn into holes (shot-hole effect) and yellowing of leaves. In bad cases, leaves drop early (summer defoliation). Control: Rake and destroy infected leaves (especially in autumn) to remove spores. Ensure good airflow through pruning, as humid stagnant air encourages leaf spot. You can use a fungicide spray labeled for Prunus leaf spot after flowering and repeat in summer if historically a problem. Resistant cultivars: some ornamental cherries are less prone, but many can get it in wet summers. Usually, leaf spot is more of a cosmetic issue; a healthy tree will re-leaf next spring fine. However, repeated severe defoliation can weaken a tree over years, so do practice sanitation and consider preventative spraying if needed.
Brown Rot & Blossom Wilt: These related fungal diseases (Monilinia species) cause blossoms to turn brown and stick to the twigs, and can also rot any fruit. You might see whole flower clusters that turn brown and don’t fall off (“mummified” on the branch). In ornamental cherries, you won’t have fruit rot, but blossom blight can occur in cool, wet spring weather. Control: Prune out any affected blossoms or spur clusters promptly – do this during dry weather and dispose of the infected material (do not compost). The fungus overwinters in mummified parts, so removal is key. Again, good spacing and airflow in the canopy reduce incidence. Fungicidal sprays right at bud break and again at full bloom can protect against blossom wilt in years/areas it’s known to occur (you’d typically do this for fruiting cherries; for ornamentals it’s rarely necessary unless a tree had a serious infection before). Avoid overhead watering during bloom and try to plant in sun so flowers dry quickly after rain.
Bacterial Canker (Pseudomonas syringae): A serious disease of cherries, causing sunken dead areas of bark (cankers), oozing gummy resin, and often associated with dieback of branches. It can also cause shothole in leaves and small branches to die in spring (called “spur blight”). This bacteria infects through wounds (including pruning cuts) and is active in cool moist conditions. Control: The best approach is prevention: only prune in summer (Jun-Aug) when the risk of infection is lowest. Keep the tree healthy through proper feeding and watering – stressed trees are more susceptible. If you see a branch with canker (gummy ooze and dead patches), mark it and plan to remove it in the next summer pruning session, cutting at least 15 cm below the affected area into healthy wood. Disinfect pruners between cuts with alcohol or a bleach solution to avoid spreading it. Copper-based sprays in autumn leaf fall and again at bud break can reduce bacterial canker incidence, but results vary. Sweet cherries and some ornamental varieties are unfortunately quite prone. If trunk cankers occur, they can sometimes be carefully cleaned out with a sterile knife back to healthy wood and then treated with wound paint, but if extensive, it may be terminal for the tree. Maintaining vigor in the tree is the best defense – many cherries live with minor cankers and still flower well if otherwise vigorous.
Silver Leaf Disease (Chondrostereum purpureum): A lethal fungal disease that causes a characteristic silvery sheen on leaves and branch dieback. It infects through cuts in the wood (pruning wounds) typically in autumn/winter. Cherries, plums, and other Prunus are particularly susceptible. Control: Prune only in summer, and avoid pruning in damp weather. If you suspect silver leaf (silvery leaves, a branch suddenly dying back), immediately prune out the affected branch at least 30 cm into healthy wood, ideally in midsummer when discovered. Dispose of that wood (burn it). The fungus produces fruiting bodies on dead wood (purplish bracket fungi), so remove any prunings or dead stumps from the vicinity. There is no chemical control; prevention by timing of pruning is critical. The good news is that silver leaf is not very common on ornamental cherries if pruning is done correctly at the right time. Vigilance is key – any odd branch that dies unexpectedly in summer should be removed promptly.
Birds and Wildlife: While not diseases, birds can "prune" your tree by breaking small twigs (particularly heavier birds like pigeons perching on thin branches – minor issue) or by eating buds. In late winter, bullfinches sometimes eat fruit buds of cherries, though this is more an orchard problem. Usually, ornamental cherries are not heavily affected, but if you see bud damage, netting the tree in late winter can deter birds (practical only for small trees). Deer and rabbits are a bigger concern: they will chew on young cherry tree bark and buds especially in winter. Always use a tree guard or fence if those animals are present in your area, until the tree is large enough to have tough bark. Deer can also nibble lower branches; you may need a taller guard or repellents in rural gardens.
Environmental Stresses: Late spring frosts can damage cherry blossoms (turning them brown). If you live in a frost pocket, plant late-blooming varieties or be prepared to lose the odd year’s display. Drought, as mentioned, can cause leaf scorch or drop. Water and mulch mitigate this. Conversely, cherries do not like waterlogged soil – extended flooding can kill roots. If an area is flood-prone, consider moving the tree or improving drainage, as cherries will not survive in boggy conditions for long.
By following good cultural practices – proper pruning timing, cleaning up debris, and monitoring – you can prevent most serious issues. The Woodland Trust notes that wild cherries often face canker and silver leaf if pruned at the wrong time, so gardeners should take that lesson to heart with ornamentals too. Also, many pests like aphids and caterpillars have natural predators; encouraging beneficial insects (with companion planting, avoiding broad pesticides) will create a balanced garden ecosystem where problems rarely get out of hand.
If you do encounter a problem that you’re unsure about, reach out to resources like the RHS advisory or local master gardeners for identification and treatment options. With attentive care, your cherry tree can remain remarkably trouble-free and continue to grace your garden with its blossoms each spring.
(External resources: RHS has detailed pages on managing silver leaf and bacterial canker, and the Woodland Trust provides insights into wildlife and diseases affecting native cherries. These are worthwhile reads for any cherry tree owner facing these issues.)
Cherry Trees and Wildlife: Biodiversity Benefits of Blossoms and Fruit
Beyond their ornamental value, flowering cherry trees can also support local biodiversity – though their wildlife benefits vary depending on the type of blossoms they have. A common question is how cherry blossom trees compare in wildlife value, especially single vs double-flowering varieties and relative to other blossom trees. Here’s what you need to know:
Pollinators and Nectar: Cherry blossoms appear in early to mid-spring, which is a critical time for bees and other pollinating insects emerging from winter. The single-flowered cherry varieties (with 5 petals) tend to produce both nectar and pollen accessible to pollinators. For example, the native wild cherry (Prunus avium) has white single blossoms that are hermaphrodite and insect-pollinated – bees and butterflies eagerly visit them for nectar and pollen. Early nectar source: In fact, wild cherry is noted for providing an early spring food source for bees. Cultivars like ‘The Bride’ (single white) or Prunus ‘Mallard’ (single pink) will similarly be frequented by bees on warm spring days. You’ll often hear a gentle buzz in a cherry tree that has simple, open flowers.
In contrast, double-flowering cherries (with many petals) are much less useful to pollinators. Many have been bred such that their stamens (pollen parts) are replaced by extra petals. A prime example is the popular ‘Kanzan’ cherry – its blossoms are large and gorgeously full, but they are largely sterile and offer little to no nectar or pollen for bees. Gardeners have observed cherry trees covered in double blossoms with not a single bee present, while a nearby crabapple or single cherry hums with activity. The Royal Parks also note that many ornamental cherries have been bred to produce more flowers at the expense of fruit; the flowers are beautiful “but only to people” – not to pollinators, in the case of doubles. So, if supporting bees and butterflies is a priority, opt for single or semi-double flowering cherries. Even semi-doubles (like ‘Accolade’) still have some fertile stamens and can attract insects, though perhaps not as much as wild-type flowers. Another pollinator-friendly cherry is Prunus padus (Bird cherry), which has fragrant white clusters of single flowers that insects love – it’s a native and great near woodland edges for wildlife gardens.
Fruit for Birds: After the blossoms, many ornamental cherries will develop small cherries (often around June). These fruits are typically small, dark, and bitter – not for human consumption, but birds will eat them. For instance, the cherries on ornamental Prunus avium (wild type or ‘Plena’) are taken by blackbirds and thrushes, and even mammals like mice or badgers eat fallen cherries. The Royal Parks mention that most flowering cherries produce fruit that is “not great for people but a good snack for the birds”. If you want to maximise bird food, single-flowered forms are again best, as they produce more viable fruit. Doubles often produce few or no fruits (they’re effectively sterile). For example, you won’t get berries from ‘Kanzan’. But a tree like Prunus ‘Tai-haku’ (single white) will produce some cherries that birds can nibble (though even wild cherry fruit tend to be quickly eaten or lost by early summer). If feeding birds is a major goal, ornamental cherries are decent but not top-tier – crabapple trees and rowans produce more abundant, longer-lasting fruits for birds. Still, cherries add to the mix of seasonal food sources: birds like song thrushes, starlings, and even jackdaws will forage in cherry trees when the little fruits ripen.
Foliage and Caterpillars: The leaves of cherry trees host the larvae of several moth species, some of which were noted earlier. This is actually a boon for biodiversity – a variety of moths (and by extension the bats and birds that eat them) can be supported by having Prunus in your garden. The Woodland Trust lists that wild cherry foliage feeds caterpillars of moths such as the cherry fruit moth, cherry bark moth, brimstone moth, etc.. Ornamental cherries should similarly support at least some of these species, especially if they are Prunus avium or Prunus padus cultivars. So while you might see a few chewed leaves, it means your tree is part of the local food web. (Double-flowered varieties still have normal leaves, so they provide this benefit too.)
Habitat and Other Wildlife: As a small deciduous tree, a cherry can provide nesting sites for birds (doves or finches might nest in a mature cherry’s fork). The rough bark on older cherry trees can harbor insects and lichens. Also, cherries often produce gum (resin) on their trunks when wounded – this can attract certain butterflies that sip sap flows, and historically this resin was even considered medicinal (though that’s more human folklore). If you allow suckers from wild cherry rootstock, those can form thickets that shelter wildlife (though gardeners usually remove them).
In terms of biodiversity ranking, an ornamental cherry with single flowers is moderately good – it offers early spring sustenance for pollinators and some fruit for birds, plus insect habitat. But an ornamental cherry with fully double blooms is mostly ornamental, contributing less to pollinators (though birds might still use it for perching or occasional fruit if any develop).
Many gardeners strike a balance by including a mix of plants. For example, you might plant a double-flowered cherry as a showpiece, but also have a crabapple or a wild cherry nearby for the wildlife. Another trick is underplanting cherries with pollinator-friendly flowers that bloom at the same time (like spring bulbs, hellebores, wallflowers) so while the cherry blooms mainly for your eyes, the insects have something else to feast on in the vicinity.
Interestingly, crabapple (Malus) trees are often recommended for wildlife because, as the Woodland Trust notes, their flowers provide important early nectar/pollen and their fruits feed birds into winter. We’ll compare cherries and crabapples in depth next, but remember that not all ornamental trees are equal in ecological value.
If maximising pollinators is your goal with cherry blossoms, consider varieties like Prunus padus, Prunus avium (single, maybe a cultivar like ‘Plena’ still has pollen), or hybrid cherries that are known to be fertile. The Greenburgh Nature Center described how a double cherry had no pollinators at all while a nearby crabapple was humming with bees – a dramatic example of why flower form matters. Their advice: provide a variety of single-blossom flowers for pollinators, not only doubles. So, one might enjoy a double cherry but ensure other garden plants compensate for its lack of nectar. After all, we humans love the ornate doubles, but our pollinator friends often prefer simple, open blooms.
In summary, flowering cherries can play a supportive role in your garden’s ecosystem, particularly by heralding spring for the bees and offering some food for birds. To boost biodiversity:
Choose single or semi-double flowering cultivars where possible.
Tolerate a bit of leaf nibbling as part of a healthy ecosystem.
Clean up diseased leaves to prevent harming your tree, but otherwise let nature interact with it.
Complement your cherries with other wildlife-friendly trees or shrubs (like crabapples, hawthorns, etc.) for a more complete buffet of nectar and fruit through the seasons.
(External reference: The Royal Horticultural Society’s Plant for Pollinators list highlights some Prunus species that are beneficial. And the Greenburgh Nature Center’s article “The Trouble with Double” explains why double blossoms lack nectar – a great read if you’re curious about the science behind it.)
Cherry Blossom Trees vs. Crabapple Trees: Which is Best for Your Garden?
Flowering cherries aren’t the only spring blossom superstars – crabapple trees (Malus) also offer a stunning display. Many gardeners debate between planting a cherry blossom tree or a crabapple, as both thrive in UK conditions. Each has its merits, and the best choice depends on your priorities: pure blossom spectacle, wildlife support, garden design needs, space available, etc. Let’s compare cherry trees and crabapple trees across a few key points:
1. Spring Blossom Display: Both cherries and crabapples produce beautiful spring blossoms in shades of white, pink, and even red. Cherry blossoms tend to have a more delicate, ethereal quality, often appearing on bare branches before the leaves (especially in Japanese cherry cultivars). Cherries like ‘Kanzan’ have clusters of large petals that create that classic fluffy canopy. Crabapple blossoms are also profuse and can be highly decorative – many crabapple varieties bloom with intense coverage. One difference: crabapple flowers are often fragrant and open (think of the sweet apple-blossom scent), while most ornamental cherry flowers have little to no fragrance (exceptions exist, like some sweet cherry flowers are mildly scented). If you want fragrance, crabapple might win. Aesthetically, cherries offer some unique forms (weeping, very pendulous clusters in some, or huge Taihaku blooms) that crabapples usually don’t. Crabapple flowers sometimes have striking pink buds that open white, giving a two-tone effect. Ultimately, both are gorgeous – you might say cherries have a slight edge in sheer elegance and cultural romance (the whole hanami tradition), whereas crabapples bring charm and often a rustic beauty.
2. Pollinators and Bees: Here crabapples generally have the advantage. Almost all crabapples have single, 5-petaled flowers loaded with pollen and nectar. Bees find crabapple blossom very attractive and will flock to them. In fact, crabapple flowers are considered an excellent early food source for bees and other insects. Many crabapple cultivars also bloom slightly later (late April into May) when the weather is warmer, so bees are active. Cherry blossoms, as discussed, can range from bee-friendly (single types) to bee-barren (doubles). So if your main goal is feeding pollinators, a crabapple is often the better choice. Example: A ‘John Downie’ crabapple in bloom will buzz with numerous bees, whereas a double cherry nearby might be comparatively silent. Both cherry and crabapple are in the rose family and provide pollen/nectar, but the difference is in how accessible that is. Verdict: Crabapple wins for pollinators in most cases (one could say a crabapple is a “bee buffet” in spring).
3. Fruit and Wildlife Value: Crabapples clearly outshine ornamental cherries here. Crabapple trees produce small apple-like fruits in late summer/autumn that often persist into winter (depending on variety, fruits can be yellow, orange, red, even purple and hang on the tree). These crabapples are highly attractive to birds and other wildlife. Thrushes, blackbirds, and crows eat them, as do small mammals. They provide a food source when other stuff is scarce, especially if they stay on the branches into winter. Some crabapple varieties hold fruit until February, feeding wildlife through the cold. Ornamental cherries, on the other hand, typically drop or have their few fruits eaten by early summer. The cherries are smaller and don’t persist; by autumn, a cherry tree has nothing to offer in terms of fruit. (One exception: Prunus padus berries do persist a bit into summer, but birds strip them quickly; and Prunus serrula fruits aren’t ornamental at all, just a few berries for the birds.) Additionally, crabapple fruits can be used by people for jelly, etc., whereas ornamental cherry fruit is generally ignored in the kitchen (too bitter). So for biodiversity and multi-season interest, crabapple takes the prize: blossom in spring, pretty fruits in autumn, and food for birds over winter. Cherry trees mostly give you blossom (and sometimes autumn leaf color) but no showy fruit.
4. Autumn Foliage: Many ornamental cherries have lovely autumn foliage – yellows, oranges, reds (e.g. Prunus sargentii and hybrids like ‘Accolade’ turn fiery red-orange). Crabapples vary; some have decent yellow or orange fall color, but it’s often not as notable as cherries. Some crabapples (like Malus tschonoskii) do have dramatic purple-red autumn leaves. If fall color is a priority, check specific varieties of both. But as a general trend, cherries might edge out in autumn foliage; many Japanese cherries were bred not just for spring but also good autumn color. Crabapples give more in fruit ornamentation in autumn. So either you have colorful leaves (cherry) vs colorful fruits (crabapple) in autumn – a trade-off.
5. Size and Growth: Flowering cherries and crabapples both come in various sizes, from small weeping forms to larger trees ~10 m. Crabapples are often medium-sized trees (most around 4–6 m at 20 years, some up to 8–10 m for species like M. sylvestris). Cherries have a similar range, though certain ornamental cherries like ‘Tai-haku’ or wild cherry can exceed 10 m over time. Both types can be grafted onto dwarf rootstocks to limit size (fruit tree nurseries often graft crabapples onto semi-dwarf apple rootstocks, and ornamental cherries might be on Colt or Gisela 5 to control size). If space is limited, you can find dwarf cultivars of both: e.g. dwarf crabapple Malus ‘Coralburst’ (a small 2m lollipop shape), or dwarf cherry ‘Kojo-no-mai’. Crabapples tend to have a more rounded, spreading form by nature, whereas cherries can be upright, spreading, or pendulous. If you need a columnar tree, cherries have a clear option (‘Amanogawa’). There are columnar crabapples too (e.g. Malus ‘Tschonoskii’ is narrowly upright). So in terms of accommodating a garden, both cherries and crabapples offer options – it’s basically a tie here. Growth rate is moderate for both; many crabapples and cherries grow ~30–60 cm per year once established, depending on variety and conditions.
6. Maintenance & Longevity: Neither tree is particularly high-maintenance. Pruning requirements are minimal for both, mostly shaping and removing crossing branches. However, remember pruning time differs: cherries in summer only (due to disease risk), while crabapples (being in the apple family) can be pruned in winter or early spring without the silver leaf issue. That could be a factor if you prefer winter pruning tasks – crabapple allows that freedom, cherry does not. In terms of diseases: cherries face canker, silver leaf as mentioned; crabapples face diseases like apple scab, powdery mildew, and fire blight. Modern crabapple cultivars often have good scab resistance (which is good because scab can make leaves drop and fruit rot). Fire blight (a bacterial disease) can occasionally hit crabapples in the south of the UK in warm summers, causing branch dieback. Ornamental cherries don’t get fire blight, but they get canker instead. So each has some disease concerns but nothing that should deter a home gardener as long as you choose resilient varieties and care properly. Lifespan: Crabapples can live a long time (50-100 years is not uncommon for wild crabapple). Ornamental cherries often have shorter lifespans – some only 20-30 years before declining, though certain types (wild cherry, etc.) can go much longer. If you want a tree that might outlive you, a crabapple or a native cherry might be better than an ornamental hybrid cherry which might age faster. But many people are content with a cherry that gives a few decades of joy, then can be replaced with a new one.
7. Aesthetics and Design: Use-case wise, cherries often serve as statement specimen trees – they’re planted for that jaw-dropping spring moment and often as part of Japanese-themed gardens or as solitary lawn trees. Crabapples can also be specimens, but they are equally used in more naturalistic or orchard-style plantings. If you’re designing a wildlife or cottage garden, crabapple fits perfectly (blossom + fruit = cottage garden staple). If you’re designing a Zen garden or formal front yard, an ornamental cherry might have the nod for elegance. Cherries also have more weeping cultivar choices, which can be a design focal point like a living fountain of flowers. Crabapples typically are more upright or rounded (though e.g. Malus ‘Pendula’ does have a weeping form, it’s less common). For year-round interest, crabapple arguably wins: spring flowers, summer foliage, autumn fruit and maybe fruit hanging into winter plus gnarly form. Cherries have spring flowers, some have nice bark (like Tibetan cherry’s polished bark is a winter asset) and good fall color – so cherries can also be multi-season, but once the leaves fall, an ornamental cherry is fairly plain in winter (aside from bark on specific species). If winter interest is crucial, consider the bark aspect or else lean to crabapples for fruit color that persists.
In conclusion, neither is strictly “better” – they excel in different ways. Here’s a quick summary table for clarity:
Aspect | Flowering Cherry (Prunus) | Crabapple (Malus) |
Spring Blossom | Spectacular bloom (esp. Japanese cvs.), many shades, some double | Spectacular bloom, many shades, often fragrant, mostly single |
Pollinators | Good if single-flowered; poor if double (little nectar) | Excellent – rich in pollen/nectar, very bee-friendly |
Fruits | Small cherries, scanty; birds eat some quickly, not showy | Colorful crabapples in autumn, loved by birds, persist into winter |
Autumn Foliage | Many have vivid autumn leaf colours (orange/red/yellow) | Some have decent color, varies; fruit provides autumn decor |
Size/Forms | Dwarf to large; upright, spreading, weeping forms available | Dwarf to medium-large; mostly round or upright (few weeping) |
Lifespan | Often shorter (20-40 years for many ornamentals) | Often longer (50+ years for many crabapples) |
Pests/Diseases | Watch for canker, silver leaf, aphids; prune in summer | Watch for scab, fire blight, aphids; can prune in winter |
Wildlife Value | Moderate (early nectar if single, some caterpillar food) | High (nectar + pollen + bird food from fruit + caterpillars) |
Landscape Use | Specimen, ornamental focal point, avenues, Japanese gardens | Cottage gardens, orchards, wildlife gardens, also specimen uses |
For a small garden wanting one standout spring tree: if you lean toward pure ornamental impact and perhaps cultural symbolism, go for a flowering cherry. If you prefer a tree that also feeds birds and pollinators and has decorative berries, choose a crabapple. Some gardeners even plant one of each for contrast and succession (cherries often bloom slightly earlier, crabapples slightly later, extending the blossom season).
Also consider blending them: e.g. an ornamental cherry flanked by two crabapples could create layers of bloom and fruit. There’s no rule you can’t have both! In fact, cherry and crabapple blossoms together make a breathtaking spring display – differing textures of flowers complimenting each other.
In terms of maintenance, both are relatively easy, just mind the pruning timing difference. If disease concerns worry you, research specific cultivars: e.g. choose a scab-resistant crabapple like Malus ‘Evereste’ or ‘Sun Rival’ to avoid leaf drop; choose a canker-tolerant cherry (some say the hybrids like ‘Accolade’ are a bit tougher than the classic Prunus serrulata types).
One might say: For blossom connoisseurs and those creating a formal ornamental effect, a cherry tree often wins hearts. For wildlife enthusiasts and those wanting dual ornamental+ecological value, a crabapple is hard to beat. Each can find a place in the UK garden.
(Fun fact: In Washington D.C., USA, cherries were gifted by Japan and are famous; but the “Cherry Blossom Capital of the World” is actually in Macon, Georgia – and interestingly it’s crabapples that often feed pollinators around the same time. Meanwhile, in the UK, we equally celebrate both – the RHS and wildlife trusts promote crabapples for gardens, and the Japanese Season of Culture gifts celebrated cherries. Why choose? Grow both if you can!)
(Internal link suggestion: If you’re weighing options, see our blog Ornamental Trees for Wildlife Gardens for more on wildlife-friendly choices like crabapples, and our Ornamental Trees for Year-Round Interest guide to compare seasonal features.)
Historical and Cultural Significance of Cherry Trees in British Horticulture
Flowering cherry trees carry rich historical and cultural meaning, both globally and within the UK. Understanding their background can deepen our appreciation and perhaps even influence how we plant and enjoy them.
Japanese Influence and Hanami: Ornamental cherry blossoms (sakura) have been celebrated in Japan for centuries, symbolising the transient beauty of life (the blossoms’ brief bloom reflects the ephemerality of existence). The practice of hanami – picnicking under blooming cherry trees – dates back over a thousand years in Japan. This cultural reverence for cherry blossom has spread worldwide. In modern Britain, we’ve embraced hanami in our own way: many parks and gardens host cherry blossom viewings, and people share first-blossom sightings enthusiastically. A notable recent cultural exchange was the Japan–UK Season of Culture 2019-20, during which Japan gifted over 6,000 cherry trees to the UK. These trees were planted in parks, gardens and schools across the country – from London’s Royal Parks (125 trees planted in 2019) to cities like Cardiff (Bute Park) and Glasgow. It was a gesture of friendship and has created new cherry blossom hotspots. For example, some of the gifted trees were the Great White Cherry (‘Taihaku’), planted in Regent’s Park and elsewhere. So, if you visit those parks in spring, you are enjoying a living symbol of UK-Japan goodwill. The hanami tradition is thus alive in the UK – not as formal as in Japan, but certainly evident in the joy Britons take in spring blossoms, whether snapping photos along city streets or attending seasonal festivals in botanical gardens.
“Cherry” Ingram and the Introduction of Japanese Cultivars: A key figure in British cherry tree history is Collingwood Ingram, affectionately known as "Cherry" Ingram. In the early 20th century, he became enamoured with Japanese flowering cherries and collected many cultivars. His most famous contribution was reintroducing the lost ‘Taihaku’ (Great White cherry) to Japan, as noted above – he brought it from a Sussex garden back to Japan in 1926 after the cultivar had gone extinct there. Ingram also bred new varieties like Prunus ‘Kursar’ (a deep pink small cherry) which he raised and which still grows in places like RHS Wisley. Many cherries in British gardens today owe their presence to Ingram’s passion and the exchanges between British and Japanese horticulturists. The UK’s National Cherry Collections – for instance, at Batsford Arboretum or the National Trust’s gardens – include cultivars collected or bred in that era. The RHS gardens (Wisley, Rosemoor, etc.) feature cherry groves with interpretation about these historic introductions.
Historic and Native Cherry Trees: The UK does have native cherry species: Wild Cherry (Prunus avium) and Bird Cherry (Prunus padus), as well as the naturalised Cherry Plum (Prunus cerasifera). Historically, wild cherries (also called gean) were valued not only ornamentally but for fruit and wood. In Britain’s past, cherries were often grown for their fruit in orchards (think of the Kentish cherry orchards). The ornamental Japanese cherries started to become popular in late Victorian and Edwardian times as gardening tastes embraced exotica and decorative plants. By the early-mid 20th century, planting blossoming cherries in parks and home gardens became fashionable. For example, the iconic Cherry allée in The Stray, Harrogate was established with rows of cherry trees creating a 2-mile sea of pink each spring. Similarly, Washington DC’s famous cherries (a gift from Japan in 1912) inspired other Western cities to plant ornamental cherries along avenues and lakes.
In the 1950s-60s, many housing developments and council plantings in the UK included ornamental cherries (particularly cultivars like ‘Kanzan’ and ‘Fugenzo’), which is why you often see mature cherry trees lining older suburban streets or public gardens. They were relatively fast-growing, flowery, and symbolised optimism and beauty in post-war communities.
Symbolism in the UK context: While we don’t have centuries-old traditions like Japan’s, cherry blossoms here have come to symbolise the arrival of spring and renewal. They often appear in art and literature as a metaphor for fleeting beauty. Even in the language of flowers, cherry blossom can mean spiritual beauty or the transience of life. In Scotland’s Highlands, wild cherry had folklore of being auspicious to encounter, hinting at a mystical appreciation. Cherry wood has been used in woodworking and the trees sometimes planted as commemorative specimens (it’s not uncommon to plant a flowering cherry in memory of a loved one – tying into the notion of beauty and transience). There’s also a strong association with peace and friendship due to international gifts of cherry trees; for instance, in 2020 a “Sakura Cherry Tree Project” saw thousands of cherry trees planted in parks and schools to celebrate UK-Japan friendship. This echoes the well-known Washington D.C. cherries that symbolise US-Japan friendship – now the UK has a similar living memorial.
Cherry Festivals and Notable Collections in UK: While Japan has entire festivals, the UK has a few local events and plenty of public gardens where cherry blossom season is a highlight:
The National Trust’s Alnwick Garden in Northumberland boasts the world’s largest Taihaku orchard – 329 Great White Cherry trees that all bloom together around late April. It’s a spectacular sight, drawing visitors from far and wide (and is an interesting example of a single-cultivar mass planting).
Brogdale Collections in Kent (home of the National Fruit Collection) has a variety of flowering cherries too, including rare cultivars.
RHS Garden Rosemoor in Devon has a dedicated cherry garden with numerous cultivars, showcasing different forms and colours.
In Wales, Bute Park in Cardiff has many ornamental cherries, some of which were gifts from Japan and create lovely walks.
In Scotland, Edinburgh’s Meadows park is famous for its long rows of pink cherry blossom each spring, often celebrated by locals with informal hanami picnics.
There are also cherry blossom displays at Kew Gardens (a “Cherry Walk” of mixed Prunus runs near the Temperate House), and Greenwich Park in London which has an iconic cherry blossom avenue often seen in photos.
These examples show that flowering cherries have been embraced in British horticulture both in private gardens and grand estates.
Modern Trends: Today, there’s a revival of interest in heritage cherry cultivars and also in breeding cherries suited for smaller gardens (hence new dwarf forms or hybrids with better disease resistance). Nurseries like those in the UK and Europe continue to introduce improved ornamental cherries – e.g. Prunus ‘Fragrant Cloud’ (Shizuka) which is a newer white double cherry known for fragrance, or Prunus ‘Pandora’ (an elegant pale pink, narrow-crown cherry good for streets). The mixture of Eastern and Western breeding efforts means gardeners have an expansive palette of cherry trees to choose from, far beyond the handful of types known a century ago.
In summary, the UK’s love affair with cherry blossom trees blends foreign inspiration and local passion. From the historic import of Japanese cherries by enthusiasts like “Cherry” Ingram, to the planting of memorial cherry avenues after world events, these trees are interwoven with stories. They remind us of global connections, the cycles of nature, and the simple joy that a burst of spring bloom can bring after a long winter. Whether you plant a cherry tree to honor someone, to partake in a bit of hanami in your backyard, or just because it’s beautiful, you’re part of a tradition that continues to grow – quite literally – across Britain.
(Cultural reference: The Royal Parks article “Ten things you might not know about cherry trees” is a fascinating read – it notes the 2019 planting, the short lifespan of cherries, and the Collingwood Ingram story. It’s a reminder that even as we cherish our cherry trees, we might need to replant for future generations, keeping the cycle going.)
Case Studies: Flowering Cherry Trees in Different Garden Settings
To wrap up, let’s envision how flowering cherry trees can be used effectively in two very different garden scenarios – one small and urban, one large and rural. These case studies illustrate practical considerations and showcase just how versatile cherry trees can be with the right variety and care.
Case Study 1: A Cherry Blossom Patio Garden (Small City Space)
Scenario: Emily has a tiny city garden behind her terrace house – essentially a patio about 5m x 5m, mostly paved with a few raised beds. She loves cherry blossoms and wants to create a Japanese-inspired corner where she can sit and enjoy spring flowers, but space is extremely limited. She also containers many of her plants due to limited flower bed area.
Solution – Choosing the Right Cherry: For Emily’s situation, a dwarf or compact cherry tree in a container is ideal. She selects Prunus incisa ‘Kojo-no-mai’, the dwarf Fuji cherry, due to its compact size and beautiful zigzag branching. ‘Kojo-no-mai’ grows slowly and will remain under 2 m, making it perfect for a large pot on the patio. It also provides interest beyond spring: pretty green foliage in summer and fiery red-orange leaves in autumn.
Emily places her potted cherry tree as a focal point in a corner of the patio, where it will get plenty of sun. To enhance the scene, she underplants the cherry in its wide container with some early spring bulbs (dwarf iris and crocus) that will bloom around the same time as the cherry blossoms – creating a layered display of color at ground and eye level.
Planting & Care: She uses a high-quality loam-based compost (John Innes No.3 mixed with grit for drainage) in a half-barrel container. She ensures the container is raised on pot feet to assist drainage, as cherries dislike waterlogged roots. The tree is planted at the correct depth and staked with a short cane initially. After planting, she mulches the top of the pot with decorative gravel (for moisture retention and looks).
In such a small garden, she is mindful of maintenance:
Watering: Because it’s in a pot, the cherry will need regular watering, especially in summer. Emily makes a habit of watering deeply whenever the topsoil is dry, and daily in hot spells. A drip irrigation on a timer is something she may install for holiday periods.
Feeding: Each spring, she sprinkles a slow-release fertiliser in the pot and top-dresses with fresh compost. Potted trees need nutrients replenished more often than in-ground ones.
Pruning: ‘Kojo-no-mai’ rarely needs pruning except to maintain shape. After flowering, Emily will trim any wayward shoots to keep the form neat. She avoids pruning in winter entirely, per the guidelines to prevent disease.
Winter care: The pot is frost-resistant, and the tree itself is hardy. However, she wraps the pot with bubble wrap in the coldest months to protect the root zone from freezing solid, and keeps an eye that the compost doesn’t dry out completely in winter.
Results: Come March, ‘Kojo-no-mai’ bursts into bloom – despite being young, it’s covered in small blush-white flowers. Emily places a small bistro table and chair near the tree and enjoys her morning tea under the blossoms, emulating a mini-hanami. Neighbors peeking over the fence even comment on the lovely blooms. The cherry’s modest size doesn’t overpower the patio; instead, it creates a sense of season and place in an otherwise urban environment. In the summer, the tree’s green leaves and sculptural form still provide interest (and she might hang a tiny string of fairy lights on it for outdoor evening gatherings). By autumn, the leaves turn fiery and drop, adding color to the patio. Emily sweeps up the fallen leaves easily – no huge mess, unlike a big tree would make.
This case shows that even a tiny city garden can host a flowering cherry. By choosing a variety bred for small size and understanding the extra needs of container culture, one can enjoy the magic of cherry blossoms on a patio or balcony. It adds softness and natural beauty to the hardscape of a city yard, and because it’s deciduous, it doesn’t block winter light. Emily’s patio cherry exemplifies how ornamentals can transform small spaces into seasonal wonderlands.
(Products: Bowhayes Trees offers potted cherry blossom trees ideal for patios – their range includes compact options like Prunus incisa 'The Bride' and Prunus serrulata 'Amanogawa' which are also great for small gardens. Emily sourced her ‘Kojo-no-mai’ from a specialist nursery with a 5L container size, easy to handle and plant.)
Case Study 2: A Cherry Grove for a Large Rural Garden
Scenario: David and Susan own a large rural property – a farmhouse with 2 acres of garden and paddock in the West Midlands. They have a big expanse of lawn and want to create a spring flowering feature that can be seen from the house and also enjoyed up close. They also are nature lovers and want something that benefits wildlife. The site is open to wind in parts and they have occasional deer visiting from nearby woods.
Solution – An Avenue and Orchard Mix: With ample space, they decide to plant multiple cherry trees, creating both an ornamental avenue and a mini cherry orchard. Along their driveway (about 50m long), they plant a spaced avenue of Prunus serrulata ‘Kanzan’, placing trees ~8 m apart on either side for a grand entrance. ‘Kanzan’ was chosen for its classic vibrant pink double blossoms that will form a tunnel of color in years to come. They understand these will get large over decades, but the driveway has room and the visual impact is worth it. To offset the fact that ‘Kanzan’ isn’t wildlife-friendly (due to double blooms), they also incorporate two Malus (crabapple) trees at the gate entrance – Malus ‘Evereste’, which has white blossom and orange-red fruits that persist into winter. This way, the entrance has a mix of cherry and crabapple for extended interest and pollinator value.
In a corner of a paddock they are turning into more garden, they create a spring orchard area. Here they plant groups of three different cherries:
A group of three Prunus ‘Tai-haku’ (Great White cherry) to celebrate the history and because the large white blooms will stand out against the countryside backdrop.
A group of three Prunus padus (native Bird cherry) near a damp swale, to integrate with nature – these will have fragrant white flowers beloved by bees and will feed birds with berries, also being hardy for that lower, wetter spot.
A single specimen of Prunus serrula (Tibetan cherry) for year-round interest, mainly its beautiful mahogany bark which glows in winter sun.
They arrange these with enough spacing (at least 10m apart between the Tai-haku group and others) to let them eventually spread. Underneath, they sow naturalised spring bulbs and wildflowers – snowdrops, primroses, and bluebells – to create a woodland feel beneath the cherries.
Planting & Care: Planting on this scale was done in autumn with bare-root trees for economy. They planted each with the recommended techniques: wide holes, mycorrhizal fungi at roots, staking well due to the windy site, and guards around trunks to prevent rabbit and deer damage (they used 1.2m tall mesh guards for the orchard trees). The driveway cherries were staked robustly and protected with trunk guards to avoid mower damage.
Maintenance for them includes:
Watering during the first 2-3 summers until fully established, using drip hoses laid along the tree rows so they can irrigate deeply during dry spells.
Mulching each tree with well-rotted manure from a local farm each spring, which keeps weeds down and feeds them slowly.
Pruning minimal, but each summer they will check the cherries for any dead or crossing branches and remove them then. For the avenue ‘Kanzan’, they might do some formative pruning in the first few years to ensure a good structure (removing lower branches as they want clearance above head height eventually along the drive). They know not to prune in winter to avoid silver leaf.
Wildlife considerations: They left some wildflower strips between the orchard trees, which encourages pollinators. They also plan to hang a couple of bird nest boxes in the cherry orchard once the trees are a bit bigger, hoping that robins or finches might nest among the blossoms in spring.
Results (Projected): In 5-10 years, their driveway will be an absolute showpiece each April – arches of pink from the ‘Kanzan’ cherries, with petals carpeting the drive like pink snow. (They’re okay with occasionally sweeping petals – a small price for the spectacle!). The crabapples at the gate bloom slightly earlier, so the sequence of bloom is extended, and they later hold bright fruits that decorate the entrance into winter.
The orchard area becomes a biodiversity haven. The mix of cherry species means a long flowering period: Bird cherries bloom in late April, Tai-haku around the same time or a bit earlier, and Prunus serrula has small blossoms in early spring too. Bees and butterflies flock to the bird cherry and Tai-haku (single blossoms full of pollen). In summer, the bird cherries bear strings of small black fruits that song thrushes and warblers feast on. In autumn, the Tai-haku and bird cherry leaves turn golden-yellow and fall, enriching the soil. The Tibetan cherry stands out in winter with its glossy bark catching the low sunlight. Underneath, the bulbs they planted now naturalise, so each spring the ground is speckled with white snowdrops and yellow primroses before the cherry blossom overhead – a layered effect of seasonal beauty.
By mixing ornamental (Japanese) cherries with native and other ornamental trees, David and Susan achieved both the ornamental wow-factor and support for wildlife. Their garden now has a memorable spring identity – one can imagine friends coming to visit in April specifically to stroll the cherry orchard and have tea under the blossoms. It might even become an annual little hanami gathering for family and friends. Additionally, these plantings increased their property’s value and charm; flowering trees often do, as they frame the house with living artwork through the seasons.
Potential challenges they manage: deer initially tried nibbling some buds but the mesh guards helped; as trees grow taller, deer damage will lessen (buds out of reach). They’ll keep an eye on canker on the bird cherries, but since they prune in summer, risk is low. The heavy clay in one area was improved with sand and compost when planting Tai-haku, as those prefer good drainage. Their efforts will pay off in robust trees.
This case shows how, in a large garden, you can use cherries in creative combinations – formal avenues, orchard clusters, mixing with other trees – to capitalise on their strengths. When space isn’t a limiting factor, consider planting more than one cherry for successional bloom and to create an enchanting landscape each spring that also ties into the local environment.
(Products and links: Bowhayes Trees had all the varieties David and Susan needed. They ordered bare-root Japanese Flowering Cherry 'Kanzan' Prunus serrulata 'Kanzan' for the avenue, as well as Wild Bird Cherry (Prunus padus) for the native portion, and even sourced a beautiful Prunus serrula. They also picked up tree stakes, ties, and rabbit guards from the Accessories section to ensure the young trees would be protected and secure. Planning a project like this through one supplier helped them coordinate delivery and planting times.)
Internal Links and Further Reading:
As you plan or care for your flowering cherry trees, you may find these resources useful on our website:
Top 10 Ornamental Trees for UK Gardens – highlights cherry blossom and other must-have varieties.
How to Plant and Care for Ornamental Trees – Seasonal Guide – step-by-step planting info (much like above) with diagrams.
Pruning Ornamental Trees for Shape and Health – specific techniques for trees like cherries.
Ornamental Trees for Wildlife Gardens – if you want to maximise ecological benefits, including use of cherries and crabapples.
Cherry Blossom Trees – Shop our Range – browse the full selection of flowering cherry trees available at Bowhayes Trees, from patio cherries to large specimens, all suitable for UK climates.
External References: (for further credible information on cherries)
Royal Horticultural Society – Flowering cherry trees for small gardens (RHS advice on best small cherries and their care).
The Independent – Best flowering cherry trees for British gardens (overview of top varieties and where to see them).
Royal Parks – Ten things you might not know about cherry trees (fun facts on history, lifespan, and UK-Japan cherry connections).
Woodland Trust – Wild cherry (Prunus avium) profile (insights on wildlife value and threats like canker/silver leaf).
Greenburgh Nature Center – The Trouble With Double (explains why double blossoms lack nectar, comparing cherries and crabapples, emphasising pollinator needs).
By combining the timeless beauty of flowering cherry trees with proper planting and care, you can enjoy a stunning spring spectacle in your garden for years to come. Whether you have room for one graceful cherry or an entire blossoming grove, these trees are sure to bring joy each season – marking the passage of time with their buds, blooms, and falling petals. Happy cherry growing, and may your springs be forever filled with blossom!
Product Title
16 px collapsible text is perfect for longer content like paragraphs and descriptions. It’s a great way to give people more information while keeping your layout clean. Link your text to anything, including an external website or a different page. You can set your text box to expand and collapse when people click, so they can read more or less info.
$320
Product Title
16 px collapsible text is perfect for longer content like paragraphs and descriptions. It’s a great way to give people more information while keeping your layout clean. Link your text to anything, including an external website or a different page. You can set your text box to expand and collapse when people click, so they can read more or less info.
$900
Product Title
16 px collapsible text is perfect for longer content like paragraphs and descriptions. It’s a great way to give people more information while keeping your layout clean. Link your text to anything, including an external website or a different page. You can set your text box to expand and collapse when people click, so they can read more or less info.
$560
Comentários